Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best Card Stock 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated December 1, 2018
Best Card Stock of 2018
After carefully examining the reviews and ratings of the people who have used them earlier this listicle has been made. Here, I will review 3 of the best card stock of 2018, and we will also discuss the things to consider when looking to purchase one. I hope you will make an informed decision after going through each of them. If you get well acquainted with these basics, you shouldn’t have a problem choosing a card stock that suits your need. Whether you’re looking to upgrade your comfort, style, or accessibility, we have picks to fit a variety of needs and budgets.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
Why did this card stock win the first place?
I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse. The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing!
Why did this card stock come in second place?
I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture.
Why did this card stock take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
Card Stock Buyer’s Guide
Tant – Incredibly Versatile Paper
This is probably the most versatile kind of origami paper. It’s made in Japan and also quite famous. Tant paper can be used to fold pretty much anything from simple models to complex ones. It’s a stiff paper with a very delicately textured surface. The paper is pretty thin, around 70 to 80 gsm. It always comes in a single colour, the same on both sides and there are lots of colour options.
This paper is quite flexible and holds creases and shapes very well.
Theres a huge amount of different colour options available and the colour doesn’t fade over time.
It’s very easy to colour one side of the paper with ink or paint.
Tant paper comes in a wide variety of different sizes. 7.5cm x 7.5cm to as big as 110cm x 80cm.
E. Cooper Ostresh, That’s me. This is my personal ranking of a deck from 1-Stars. This grade is not intended to be taken as anything more than my own personal opinion. It does not necessarily follow the scores of the decks. Ie. By the numbers an Anglo Rug deck scores just about as well as a Piatnik Club, a four-star deck, yet I love the back design on the Anglos so much that I give it one of my five star ratings. A note about my five-star decks: At any given time there will only be five-star decks. I have set a limit on myself to avoid being a reviewer that dolls out stars every time I try out a deck I really like. None of the star decks will be decks that are only found in the secondary market. If a five-star deck goes out of print and then sells out of stock from the primary retailers it shifts to “Immortal” Status. Once a deck becomes immortal it opens a spot for the best four star deck to get promoted.
In the original reviews I use a point scale for specific characteristics of the decks. I set as my average in those a 7(my educational biases shade my thinking in terms of a 7/being a C) and used the Bike 80as the primary comparison deck. I’ll continue reviewing as such for the long term reviews but for this buyers guide I have turned it into a point scale because it will be easier to interpret tables, if I choose to post any, and because in the original reviews I would stop using a deck if it reached a or below in any one category. Thus a five point scale was sufficient.
How smooth and easy does a deck dribble. This is a useful characteristic for some flourishes and some sleights. (Dribble force, Dribble shift, Anaconda Dribble)
Short for Crimp hold and recovery. How well does a card hold a crimp when you want it to and how well can you bend out a crimp when you don’t want it. Decks with a high crimp score will tend to look better over the long haul whereas decks low in this stat will start looking “beat up” quicker.
Short for single card glides. In its most basic this rates how easy it is to glide one card, and only one card, off from the deck. Obviously this is a rating for the “glide” move but many modern card sleights(that I won’t mention for fear of tipping methods) use the glide in some way or another.
Those of you who have read my In-depth reviews also know that I give a weekly update on the progress of the deck. That won’t happen in this consolidated review. Instead I’ll give one rating for each category. This rating indicates the deck at its peak(not average) performance and if a score is listed in red that indicates the cards “Achilles Heel.” The Achillies heel represents the category that will likely give you the most trouble. Here is a good example.
As you can see the Anglos and Fourniers both have the same Achilles heel. Their fan. The Anglos rate higher than the Fourniers because, at their peak, they perform better than the Fourniers in this area. This can be misleading. Overall the Fourniers have a fan that can be “broken in” so over the long haul they actually perform better than the Anglos. I leave it as is for consistency sake. To gain a full understanding you need to look at the whole run of numbers. For one, Fourniers will last a lot longer than Anglos, as represented in the longevity stat. The best way to evaluate it is to read through the in-depth reviews that I provide links to.
These are decks for people with a powerful style. Though they rarely fan as well as the other cards they are usually the best option for knuckle busters and complicated flourishes. All other things being equal a Worker will hold a double, perform glides, and stay together in packets(both for XCM cuts and passes) better than softer decks. Flourishers who style is heavily influenced by complicated packet cuts and aerial packet tosses will likely prefer these stiffer stocks. Magicians who are performing modern high end sleights, particularly one handed techniques(one handed dl, one handed shifts, clipshifts, one handed pop-outs), will probably appreciate the security the stiffer decks offer.
You can take that to the bank!
Danny Vena (Synchrony Financial): Legendary investor Warren Buffett first initiated a position in Synchrony Financial in the second quarter of 2017, and he increased that position in the third quarter. All told, Berkshire Hathaway now holds 20.million shares in the company. So what had the Oracle of Omaha buying?
Buffet probably also likes that because store credit cards generally charge higher interest rates than the standard variety, Synchrony generates an impressive net interest margin — the difference between the interest a company collects and what it pays out to depositors — of 16.2%.
All of this gives investors plenty of incentive to follow Buffett’s example and buy Synchrony.
A current leader and still growing
Yes, they are important, and they are the eventual future—when they get cheaper, much cheaper. For the near future, though, and maybe even longer, 1080p is the sweet spot for PC gamers.
The truth is, though most gamers would certainly love to game at the highest resolution possible, it’s expensive to purchase both a high-res 4K or 1440p display and the requisite video card to handle that higher resolution. (One depends on the other.) Most of us just want a game to look good and run smoothly, and that’s quite easy to achieve at the mainstream resolution of 1,920×1,080. (To get a common confusion out of the way: This resolution is also known interchangeably as “1080p” and “full HD.”)
1080p play supreme, and VR too: Nvidia’s GeForce GTX 1060 Founders Edition
Just one problem! Since 1080p is such a popular resolution, a boatload of video cards are competing for the top spot in the category. But that’s where we come in. We’ll walk you through the features you need to pay attention to when shopping for a 1080p video card, and also outline the best cards we’ve tested for gaming at this resolution, given your budget.
Radeon RX 460- and 470-based cards from PowerColor
See our reviews below of individual cards for a good idea of the kind of frame rates you can expect in games that you might play. We test with demanding new titles and some staple older offerings.
In this price range, as we mentioned above, our favorite cards are the Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050 and AMD Radeon RX 460 and, presumably, once we get to test one, the RX 560 assuming it holds the trend of the RX 460. AMD holds a slight price edge here. You could also opt for a last-generation card like the seminal GeForce GTX 960 (last generation’s sweet-spot 1080p card), but only if you really get a bargain. The Pascal and Polaris cards are just that much better.
Paperweight and printer capabilities
There are different types of printing papers each with unique characteristics and printing requirements. The types are usually determined through paperweight which describes the sturdiness and thickness of the paper. The heavier paper is, the more power it demands from the printer.
Here are different types of printing papers based on paperweight:
Bold/writing paper – This is the standard type of paper used in most offices. Most printers work well with this paper. Its standard weight includes 16lb, 20lb, 24lb, 28lb, 32lb, and 36lb.
Card stock /cover paper – The card stock paper weighs between 67lb and 140lb. The cover paper common uses include making cards, catalog covers, banners and scrapbooking. Bristol and Index papers also fall into this category.
Tag paper – This is the heaviest of all the printing papers. Its weight ranges from 100lb to 200lb.
Unlike the commonly used printing papers, Cardstock and Tag papers are usually heavier meaning that they require inkjet/laser printers with unique features. Printing this type of papers on a standard machine is likely to result in low quality or even worse damage your papers by folding them.
Feeding and folding
When it comes to cardstocks printing, a printer that allows front or back feeding is the most suitable. This is because with cardstocks a little folding can mean damage. Therefore printers that must be fed from the top are not the best suited for this job.
Now that you are aware of the key things to look for when buying a cardstock printer let us look into the best selling machines in 201All the cardstock printers in this review have been selected basing on the key features discussed above.
Canon PIXMA Pro-100
The Canon PIXMA Pro 100 printer is designed to handle a maximum paper weight of 1lbs and a maximum paper size of ALegal. This means that it has the capability to handle a wide range of common cardstock papers. With a standard output of and a paper input capacity of 150, the machine is up to the task for any moderate printing jobs.
In regards to feeding, the Canon PIXMA 100 printer has a front loading cartridge and a rear paper tray. The loading tray can hold up to 150 sheets of the standard Apapers and has a cover to prevent dust. The feeding design of this printer makes it possible to print cardstocks without bending or folding.
When it comes to print quality, this printer uses pigment-based ink which fits well with the standard cardstock papers.
Epson WorkForce Pro WF-4640
The Epson WorkForce Pro is another top cardstock printer on the market today. The machine has a maximum paperweight capacity of 6lb and can print A4, A5, A6, B5, and up to 8.x 14-inch paper sizes. With a resolution of 4800 x 1200 dpi, the print quality is very high.
When it comes to feeding method, the Epson WF-4640 contains front and rear trays designed to allow printing papers without folding or bending them. The two front loading trays have a capacity of 500 sheets of standard printing papers.
In regards to printing capacity, this printer can handle up to 30,000 pages in a month. This Epson printer can also be used for copying, scanning, and faxing.
Epson SureColor P400
If you are looking for a machine for basic cardstock printing tasks, the Epson SureColor is a good choice. The printer has a paperweight capacity of 74lb and can print paper sizes of x inches, x inches, x inches, Letter, Legal, 1x 1inches, and 1x 1inches.
With a front loading tray and a rear receiving tray, the printer does not bend or fold the cardstocks when printing. The Epson SureColor P400 printer has a resolution of 5,760 x 1,440 DPI which is vital in ensuring the quality of print.
HP Deskjet 9800
If your task involves printing envelopes, postcards, brochures with photos, calendars and tabloids, the HP DeskJet 9800 is the best fit. With a paperweight capacity of 16lb to 74lb, the printer can handle a wide range of cardstock papers. In regards to size, the machine can handle all the standard cardstock paper sizes.
The printer has a front loading tray with a capacity of 150 sheets and an output tray with a capacity of 100 sheets. With this input and output mechanism, the printing process is usually smooth with no folding or bending of the cardstocks.
With an optimized dpi color of 8400 and a resolution of up to 1,200 x 1,200 dpi, the print quality of this machine is top-notch. The standard printing speed of the HP DeskJet 9800 is eight pages per minute.
HP Photosmart 6520 Wireless Color Photo Printer with Scanner and Copier
Five golden rules of investing
This is the first incarnation of this guide. Please suggest any changes or questions in the Investing in a stocks & shares ISA discussion. Thanks to Gavin Haynes from Whitechurch Securities for fact-checking the guide.
Income and gains made are free of any tax
It’s very important you understand what the tax breaks are and whether they really matter to you before you decide to use your ISA allowance for investing.
A. You don’t pay capital gains tax (CGT) on gains made within an
ISA – great if you exceed the Ј11,300 annual CGT allowance.
CGT is a tax you’ll have to pay on the gain you make when selling things such as shares, a second home (you don’t pay capital gains on selling your first home) and jewellery.
So if you buy shares at Ј1,000 and then sell them for Ј1,500, you’ve made a Ј500 gain. You might then have to pay tax on that. But it’s important to understand that…
You’re allowed to make Ј11,300 of gains this tax year (2017/18) tax-free outside an ISA. So you would ONLY gain using a stocks & shares ISA in a year where you were making total gains over Ј11,3
B. Dividends are tax-free under the new dividends allowance.
There are two ways you make money from investing. One is when the shares increase in value and then you reap a nice little profit when you sell them. The other is when they pay dividends.
Dividends are a bit like interest on a savings account. If a company makes a profit, it gives some of it back to you – it could be on a regular basis or as a one-off. And just as you have a personal savings allowance for interest on savings, you also have a dividends allowance each tax year where the first Ј5,000 you receive is tax free.
Any dividends received above this allowance will be taxed – at 7.5% for basic-rate taxpayers, 32.5% for higher-rate tax payers and 38.1% for additional-rate taxpayers.
However, dividend income received on shares held in a stocks & shares ISA will be tax-free. (Older investors may remember when there was a 10% tax deducted from dividends at source which couldn’t be reclaimed, which meant a stocks & shares ISA wasn’t quite tax-free – this was abolished in April 2016.)
If you’re a higher or additional-rate taxpayer who receives taxable dividend income, then you must inform HMRC.
C. You don’t pay any income tax on interest from corporate bonds in an ISA.
With corporate bonds, instead of investing in a company’s success, you’re effectively lending money to it for a set time. In return, it’ll have to pay you interest.
You’re taking the risk that it won’t give you the money back, so it isn’t risk-free. But the good news is…
If you’ve got corporate bonds, or bond funds within an ISA that pays out interest, you don’t have to pay any tax on it.
If you’re investing in corporate bonds outside a stocks & shares ISA, it’ll fall under the remit of the personal savings allowance. This means basic-rate (20%) taxpayers – will be able to earn Ј1,000 interest with no tax while higher-rate (40%) taxpayers – will be able to earn Ј500 interest with no tax. Additional rate (45%) taxpayers get nothing.
Bear in mind that this allowance covers your normal savings interest in a bank too as well as other forms of interest. As with the dividend allowance, you’ll owe tax on any interest earned above its limit.
Drip-feeding money in over time reduces risk
It’s tempting to try to time the market, but it’s almost impossible and even the most experienced investors get it wrong. By pulling out of the market as soon as a share dips or trying to second-guess when a share will reach its peak, you could lose out on sharp recoveries or see the price go down again.
Instead, you should invest on a regular basis – in investment lingo this is called ‘drip-feeding’ – to smooth out any ups and downs. This will give you an added benefit of something called ‘pound cost averaging’.
This is how it works
If you invested a Ј10,000 lump sum and bought shares valued at Јeach, you’d have 1,000 shares.
If you bought Ј5,000 worth of the same shares per month over two months (amounting to 10,000 overall), you’d buy 500 shares in the first month.
But if the share price went down to Ј9.50 in the second month, you’d be able to buy 52shares, as the shares are at a lower price.
So, rather than your full Ј10,000 investment being affected by the drop in share price, only half of your money drops in value.
In this example, a lump sum of Ј10,000 buys 1,000 shares while two payments of Ј5,000 buys 1,02shares. Smaller investing on a regular basis means any drop in share price wont be too noticeable.
It’s as if you have to take a supermarket’s bag, and some charge you 50p for it and others charge you 10p. This can either be a flat fee (best for high investors) or a percentage of the value of your funds (the larger your funds, the more it’ll cost you).
Fund manager charge (also known as annual management charge).
Then you’ll also be charged for everything you put in that bag – the funds you invest in. This is the charge by the actual manager of the fund held within your stocks and stocks & shares ISA. This is always a percentage and can typically vary from 0.1% – 1% per fund, depending on which fund you’re investing in.
Transfer out fee.
The cost involved in moving your stocks & shares ISA from one platform (provider) to another. This is usually charged per fund, so the more funds you have within your stocks & shares ISA, the more it’ll cost you. However, some platforms don’t charge a fee for transferring out.
If you have Ј20,000 invested in funds with Hargreaves Lansdown, you’d be paying Ј90 a year in platform charges. This compares to Ј50 with Cavendish Online.
The larger your investment, the bigger the difference. Ј100,000 invested in funds with Hargreaves Lansdown would cost you a whopping Ј450 a year compared to Ј250 with Cavendish Online.
The funds we used were
If a fund wasn’t available on a platform, we didn’t include it in our calculations. We averaged out the fund price based on the available funds.
Our calculations are only based on the annual fund manager’s fee – we haven’t looked into any entry or exit fees. When choosing a platform to invest in, look at your specific fund charge to get an accurate comparison.
Cavendish offers a discounted route to one of the most popular fund platforms – Fidelity. If you went direct to Fidelity you’d be paying a platform fee of 0.35%. So if you don’t mind the no frills approach Cavendish offers and want access to the funds Fidelity has, you’d be better off using Cavendish to save on the platform fee.
Although AJ Bell below has similar platform charges tiered up to 0.25%, it has higher trading charges, so Cavendish Online or Charles Stanley Direct win if you know you’ll be an active trader.
AJ Bell has similar platform fees as those above of up to 0.25%. However, it does charge Ј1.50 for buying and selling funds, so if you know that you are going to trade a lot, then choosing our other top picks would probably be a better option for you.
One thing to be aware of with AJ Bell, is that if you transfer out to another provider in the future, there’s a whopping Ј2transfer-out fee per fund – so if you have a lot of funds to transfer, this could leave a big dent in your wallet.
If you want a wide range of funds to choose from, Interactive Investor is a good alternative. It has a fixed platform fee of Ј20 per quarter.
Interactive Investor gives you two free trades per quarter, after this, additional trades cost Јeach. The more you trade, the cheaper it gets – Јfor or more trades per month.
If you know you’re an active investor and are going to make 20 trades in the first year, it’ll cost you Ј200 (free trades, 1trades at Јplus platform fee) with Interactive Investor, assuming you transferred over 1funds. With Halifax (above) it would cost you Ј262.50.
It has more funds than any of our other best buys that allow transfers, and offers a mobile app. If you want a diverse portfolio, and want to trade and check on your funds on the go, this is a good pick.
Get free research to help choose a fund
If you’re new to investing but don’t want to pay someone to manage your investments for you, lots of the big providers have free detailed fund and stock market information on their websites. If you’ve jumped straight here, don’t just dive in – it’s worth going back to the start of this guide where we explain exactly how stocks & shares ISAs work and what a fund is.
Here are our top picks to get up-to-date, in-depth and easy-to-read information on funds, so that you can swot up before deciding where to invest your cash.
We’ve said before that Hargreaves Lansdown is one of the pricier platforms, but that doesn’t mean it’s a no-go for investing. It provides a pretty decent service and has a very helpful and easy-to-navigate website jam-packed full of information about funds – and you can make the most of this whether you sign up or not.
You can search for funds by name, company and sector to find out more about them. Or start by reading about the type of investment sector you’re interested investing in; for example Asia, the U.S, smaller companies in the UK or the so-called ‘Equity Income’ sector. For each, you can find an overview of how it’s performed over specific time periods as well as reviews of specific funds within the sector and an explanation of how the sector itself works.
The research team at Hargreaves Lansdown regularly runs a “Fund in focus”* feature to highlight one of the funds in the Wealth 150+ (Hargreaves Lansdown’s selection of the best funds). Each focus gives detailed information about the fund’s history and how it’s performing, as well as the lowdown on any charges you’d have to pay on the fund.
How to make a presentation binder
You’ve done your homework and are ready to wow at your presentation. But how to make your presentation binder as awesome as you are? Office Ink shows you how to make engaging, informative and sensibly organized presentation binders.
The Apple Watch Nike+, Apple Watch Hermès and the Apple Watch Edition all have the same internals and specifications as the Apple Watch Series 3, but have distinct aesthetic appearances. And you can choose between aluminium and stainless steel for the case of the Apple Watch Series 3.
The Apple Watch Nike+, which is made from aluminium, is aimed at those who love running and are looking for a sport-orientated smartwatch. We see the Nike+ as an Apple Watch Sport replacement.
The Apple Watch Hermès and the Apple Watch Edition are both aesthetically different to the standard Series 3 watch, too. The Hermès is made with stainless steel, with a unique strap and a Hermès stamp on the back, while the Apple Watch Edition is made with white ceramic, giving it a unique design. Both of these watches start at more than £1,000, and are only available for the cellular model.
Apple Watch Series vs Apple Watch Series 3
If you’re not looking for the latest model, there’s the Apple Watch Series 1, which is a rebadged version of the original Apple Watch that has a new upgraded processor.
The Apple Watch Series 3 features built-in GPS, optional cellular internet, a faster processor, a faster wireless chip, IP6water and dust resistance, a 50 percent brighter screen, and a barometric altimeter – as you can see, there are plenty of improvements compared to the Series 1.
Both the Series and Series 3 come with a dual-core processor. It’s important to note, though, that the Series comes with a S1P dual-core (not to be confused with the single-core S1), while the Series 3 houses an Sdual-core processor, which should deliver substantially faster performance.
Looking at the materials used, the stainless steel version of the Series 3 has the sturdier sapphire glass screen, while the Series is protected with Ion-X glass. It should be noted that the aluminium models of the Series use the same Series glass material.
Price-wise, the Series starts at £249, while the Series starts at £32for the regular model and £39for cellular. Prices increase when you start changing size, straps and materials, though it’s worth noting that the Series is only available in Silver or Space Grey aluminium.
There is only the Sport Band available for Series models, but if you want a different strap you can purchase it separately, but that will of course cost you a few more pennies – all the same straps are compatible regardless of your watch model.
Given the price difference of just £80 between the Series and the base Series 3, it’s hard not to recommend the later model. It’s not only faster, but has several features the older model is lacking, is available in more colours, and will enjoy Apple software support for longer – it’s a better bet unless you really can’t stretch your budget beyond £249.
The straps are
Each of these is available in multiple colour options, which vary according to the model of Apple Watch you’ve selected.
There are some nice third-party straps out there too. We’ve collected our favourite first- and third-party Apple Watch straps in a separate feature on the best Apple Watch straps.
View Apple Watch Series 3 buying options on Apple Store
Wristbands are a very specialized option for barcoding but also the best fit for the application of tracking people. You could always use a label on someone’s clothing but this will not be a reliable option since it’ll most likely fall off. A wristband is a reliable and easy to use means to get a barcode on a person that will not fall off and handle the rigors or everyday life.
Most labels use an acrylic permanent adhesive that is great for smooth, clean surfaces. Once this adhesive fully bonds to the surface it will be difficult to remove and in the process you will either destroy the label itself or leave a fair amount of residue at the very least. Permanent adhesive works well on paper, wood, glass, plastic, and some metals.
Removable adhesives do not have the same strength or stickiness as permanent adhesives, which make it easy to remove a label without damaging it or the item. Most often, a removable adhesive is used when a label is being used on paperwork during a process and then a product box when completed. Some specialty retails will also want to use this type of adhesive so that they can easily remove a pricing label without any residue on the item.
High tack adhesive is a type of permanent adhesive that has extra initial stickiness. This type of adhesive is typically used for situations where you don’t have a clean, smooth surface at room temperature to apply the label. If you are using labels on site in a dirty environment like a building work site, a high tack adhesive would ensure the label bonds to the surface more quickly.
Additional Media Features
Although we have covered all the basic features you will need to determine to find the right media for most applications, there are a couple more options that are not as common but need to be addressed. These options may put your media choice into the realm of custom made vs. stock, off-the-shelf option. Custom media may require extra lead times and can easily increase your overall cost of the solution.
The vast majority of media is going to be blank white but a variety of colors are available. When a label or tag is colored it is referred to as “flood coated”. This just means that the entire surface is colored without any edge or border. There are often a few sizes of colored labels available off-the-shelf but if your required size is not available it will have to be custom made.
Every stock label, tag, and wristband is going to be a rectangle or square. This is not to say that other shapes are not possible though. Some applications may want a circular label for easier identification or to fit on a bottle. There are some stock butterfly shaped labels for jewelry labeling but anything else beyond rectangular will always have to be custom made.
Finding the Right Barcode Labels and Ribbon
If you’re printing at home, just know that desktop printers are often limited in the weight of cardstock they can handle.
The best way to determine the maximum weight of paper your printer can handle is by reviewing your printer’s instructions, and then simply test printing cardstock of various weights.
Some tips for printing at home
Set your printer to high quality. Make sure your printer is set to “photo” or “high” quality to get the crispest, most professional looking invitations
Use textured cardstock. Since inkjet printing can sometimes look a little “fuzzy”, I like to use textured cardstock to hide some of the imperfections. My favorite textured cardstock is this linen stock from Paper and More. It looks just like linen fabric and it will give your invitations the most beautifully textured finish.
Printing at a local print shop
A local print shop like Kinko’s or FedEx Office can provide professional quality print services at a fraction of the cost of boutique printing. They often use high-end laser printers which can create crisp, clear invitation prints, but it also comes with a few drawbacks.
Here are some things to keep in mind when choosing a local printer:
Not all printers or locations print the same. I have had two different Kinko’s locations provide two very different print qualities even though they both used the same paper and printers.
Laser printers apply a layer of ink on top of the paper. Usually this doesn’t present any problems but on some types of paper, like shimmery cotton or vellum, the ink can flake off.
The tips for printing at a local print shop are similar to my tips for printing at home. Here’s how to get the most out of your invitations:
Save your invitations as a high-quality PDF on a thumb drive. Once you have filled out your templates, save them as PDFs with the highest resolution possible (how to do this will vary based on your software, so Google instructions if you’re unsure) on a portable thumb drive.
Use cardstock with a smooth texture. I have had some bad experiences laser printing on textured paper. Because laser printers apply a layer of ink on top of the paper, sometimes too much texture can cause problems. I like to stick to a thick cotton cardstock which is smooth, but not slick. This kind is my absolute favorite.
Always do a test print first. If you go early in the morning before the print shop gets crowded, someone at the full-service print counter will typically be happy to help you print a few invitation samples. This is the best way to see exactly what your invitations will look before investing in premium of paper.
CHOOSING A PAPER THICKNESS
Once you have your paper selected, it’s time to choose the weight.
A good rule of thumb is the higher the weight in pounds, the thicker the cardstock. The thicker the cardstock, the better your invitations will look and feel, especially if you’re printing them yourself.
On SD cards you also get
Speed class: The minimum write speed for the card, also measured in MBs. Filming a video? This is essential for you to consider as a dramatic drop in write speed could cause loss of frames and reduce video quality. This means action footage could look jumpy or distorted.
UHS class: This is another measure of write speed. UHS stands for ultra high speed. Cards with a UHS rating can work fast enough to capture HD and 4K images, if your device is compatible (check speeds below).
On compact flash cards you also get
UDMA rating: Ultra direct memory access enables more rapid write and read speeds, allowing the card to support HD and 4K images. Cards are graded from 0-7, with offering the highest performance.
Just want the highest speed possible? Be sure that the speed of your device supports the speed of the card, otherwise the benefits are lost.
VPG: Stands for video performance guarantee and is very similar to an SD card’s speed class. There are only two classifications, VPG-20 and VPG-65, with the latter offering the minimum possible risk of frame loss.
Write protect on SD cards
Often memory cards will have the write-protect logo displayed. This means you can lock your card so that it cannot be written on. To be able to record data on your card again, you would need to move the tiny lever at the top of the card down to make it ready to use.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Card Stock wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Card Stock
- №1 — White Card Stock – 8 1/2 X 11 Smooth Cardstock – 50 Sheets Per Pack
- №2 — White Card Stock Heavyweight 8.5 x 11 – 100lb Cover
- №3 — Neenah Astrobrights Premium Color Card Stock