Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best Climbing Gloves 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated December 1, 2018
Best Climbing Gloves of 2018
I browse the various climbing gloves available on the market and list three of the very best. There’s a product for every kind of user on the list of affordable options below.
You must have heard that the best climbing gloves should allow you to save money, right? Sure, but that’s not the only reason you should consider getting one. Come with me.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
№1 – Winter Gloves
Why did this climbing gloves win the first place?
The rear part fits perfectly! It is mounted really tight and reliable. The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product.
Why did this climbing gloves come in second place?
The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made.
№3 – Winter Gloves Skeleton Zombie Bones Design Windproof Waterproof For Riding Biking Climbing Motorcycling Cycling Working Gardening
Why did this climbing gloves take third place?
It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. The material is incredibly nice to the touch. It has a great color, which will suit any wallpapers. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built.
Climbing Gloves Buyer’s Guide
Women’s Girl’s Chunky Cable Wool Knit Mittens Patchwork Color Winter Warm Thick Plush Fleece Lining Gloves Hand Warmer Mom Daughter Parent-child Gloves+a Hanging String for Anti-lost
Shell: 100% Acrylic. Lining: Thick soft warm plush fuzzy Polar Fleece. Comfortable feel! Available in kids girls size and adult women’s size. Fit for …
Canyon’s Grand Canyon cross-country hardtail
Cross-country bikes tend to use larger diameter 29in wheels — so are often referred to as 29ers — combined with lightly treaded, low-volume and fast-rolling tyres for maximum speed, though some brands offer them with 650b wheels — also called 27.5in.
They tend to use steeper head angles combined with longer stems and narrower bars for quick reacting handling and to place the rider into an efficient pedalling position.
The downside of this type of geometry is that it can make them harder to control on steeper descents, especially when combined with shorter-travel suspension and skinnier tyres.
Cheaper cross-country bikes will use alloy frames, but carbon is the default choice for top-end race bikes — although exotic materials such as titanium are sometimes seen. They tend to have a very wide range of gears to allow steep climbing as well as a high top speed.
Buy one if: you like pushing your heart rate as high as it’ll go and riding for hours on end.
Entry: £750 (hardtail), £1,000 (full suspension)
Good: £1,500 (hardtail), £2,500 (full suspension)
Brilliant: £2,500 (hardtail), £3,500 (full suspension)
This is the most popular style of bike because it can be used for pretty much anything.
Trail bikes have more relaxed angles to give greater confidence when descending and kit that’s designed to deal with more punishment. They use shorter stems and wider handlebars to help improve control at speed, while tyres will have more aggressive tread.
Enduro is a racing format in which the descents are timed, but you still have to pedal yourself around the course. That means that these bikes are designed to perform exceptionally well down steep and difficult trails but are still light and efficient enough to pedal back to the top.
The Mondraker Dune Carbon XR is an excellent — and expensive — modern enduro machine
Enduro bikes tend to have more travel than ‘normal’ trail bikes, and are almost exclusively full suspension. Most use around 160-170mm of travel at either end, paired to tough wheels and reinforced tyres. The suspension units they use are still air-sprung but tend to be heavier duty with a wide range of damping adjustments to tune their downhill performance.
Some have remotes that allow you to change the bike’s geometry and travel between a downhill and uphill mode. Many have just one chainring and a device to prevent the chain falling off paired to a wide range of gears at the back. Enduro bikes are also called ‘all mountain’ bikes as they’re ideal for riding in mountainous and technical terrain.
Commencal’s Supreme DH Race is a World Cup-ready downhill racer
As the name suggests, these bikes are about doing one thing; going down steep and technical tracks very, very quickly.
They have around 200mm of travel at either end, often using coil sprung suspension that’s optimised for pure traction and support, rather than pedalling ability.
To put up with the huge forces the bikes are put under, the forks have legs that extend above the head tube and are then braced together, known as a ‘double-crown’ or ‘triple-clamp’ fork. Again, aluminium is the choice for cheaper bikes, while pro-level machinery will be carbon.
Electric mountain bike
The Scott E-Genius 7Plus is an example of a modern electric mountain bike
Motorised mountain bikes are becoming very popular indeed, and it’s now possible to find electric mountain bikes in pretty much all of the disciplines listed above.
These bikes incorporate a motor and battery into their design and work by assisting the pedalling that a rider delivers. The power on offer is usually adjusted via a control unit at the bike’s handlebar.
These bikes are significantly heavier than their non-motorised equivalents but can make light work of climbing up the steepest of gradients. Don’t go thinking riding an e-bike is a piece of cake though, these can deliver a workout that many pros use to train with.
Dirt jump bikes
Dirt jump mountain bikes use tiny frames and often 24in or 26in wheels
As the name suggests, these are meant for hitting jumps or pump tracks.
They use tough frames that are easy to move about in the air, short-travel forks and often only have one gear for simplicity.
Singlespeed mountain bikes
Singlespeed bikes are few and far between, but those who like them tend to really like them
Popular with masochists, these bikes only have one gear.
The lack of moving parts means they’re simple to maintain and many people like to run them through the winter months to prevent damaging another bike.
They can be very cheap but many are also expensive, exotic bikes built by niche custom framebuilders. They’re usually hardtails or fully rigid.
Magpul Industries Technical Gloves
This is the most tactical and lightweight glove in Magpul’s lineup, designed to offer you abrasion protection (plus maximum dexterity). With durable synthetic construction, the gloves allow a second-skin fit with Terry backed thumbs and touch screen capability to offer your active hands protection.
The inner finger and palm area feature a tough suede construction for, you guess it right, giving you a more secure grip on all your firearms narrow, even when working in wet conditions.
Then comes a minimalistic forefinger design to help you easily access and achieve better control of your hunting rifle trigger. Still on finger design, the thumb area is backed by a terrycloth material which helps you easily and quickly remove fogging on your hunting scopes or glass.
This pair of fantastic gloves is unlike others which come with a loose wrist closure that allows particles to enter and compromise your comfort. It comes with an elastic closure (for a tight, yet comfortable fitting around your wrist) to ensure that no debris find their way into your hand when you’re aiming at your target.
The last manufacturer’s touch on these gloves to make them 100% ideal for you hunting tasks was adding a subdued synthetic branding which promotes camouflage and total concealment.
Beretta Men’s Mesh Half Finger Shooting Glove
Sometimes you won’t want to use juts any shooting gloves; instead, you’d look for the fingerless shooting gloves. And in that case, you should consider looking into the Beretta Men’s Mesh Half Finger Shooting Glove. They come with half-finger design to offer you a greater feel accorded by your fingertips.
The 100% polyester design enables the gloves to last longer, even when used in the toughest of the environments.
It also comes with a mesh back design which facilitates smooth air circulation inside the gloves. This helps prevent your fingers from getting sweaty and making it almost impossible for them to work while inside the gloves.
Another notable feature includes the textured palm which gives you a sure grip on your hunting rifle…not to forget that it also offers you maximum comfort and sensitivity.
With an easy pull-on design, getting them on/off becomes a few seconds task.
Keeping in mind that a typical hunt lasts for around 4-hours, you’d want to invest in a pair of gloves that are as much comfortable as possible.
Imagine wearing gloves whose fabric keeps rubbing against your skin for all these hours? That’d lead to an irrepressible itch that will draw your focus from your target- sad!
As a bonus tip, ensure the gloves you buy are breathable. This will help prevent your hands from becoming hot and uncomfortable due to smooth air circulation inside.
Lastly, your gloves should be lightweight. You don’t want gloves that weigh you down and make your hands feel exhausted even before you’ve hit your target game.
Belaying with a gloved hand is nice, but climbing with sweat-soaked hands is a bummer. Get the best of both worlds with the Black Diamond Crag Climbing Glove. The synthetic leather palm and fingers give you a sure grip while the breathable mesh fabric helps you stay dry and cool.
User of the WOD Fitters
I bought my first pair of StrongerRx’s LT1Forever Glovea little under a year ago and I can’t be more satisfied. The price is high, in comparison to other gloves on the market, I’ll admit. But with LT 1I have the option to get new ones for free, because of their Forever Glove program. I work out five times a week and two of those five are strictly strength workouts while on the other three I do mixed cardio, endurance, balance and strength training. I prefer the full finger coverage because rope climbing is one of the activities I just love doing. The grip strength and momentum force is as present as it is without them,but even better and I am more confident in myself because of the security and protection of the gloves. Overall, it’s a great investment and I would certainly recommend them to all crossfit junkies like myself.
Difference Between Using Plain Chalk and Hand Gloves
There are a lot of split opinions when it comes to deciding between these two options. Nowadays athletes from all different types of sports include gloves in their training equipment especially if they do intense gym training besides their regular ones.
For example, a basketball player does his usual ball game training, but a few times a week he goes for those high rep, strength and conditioning training at the gym. He uses gloves because stiff hands full of calluses’ are neither desirable nor practical for the extremely skillful handling of the ball that basketball requires.
Chalk is still present in gyms, making a mess everywhere it goes. The buckets go around, and people still use it. Its purpose is to keep your hand dry by soaking up a sweat and help you have a better grip, especially when weightlifting. It definitely does not fully protect your hands just dries them up and in the long term that may lead to increased damage to the hands. Some men refuse to use gloves under the impression that gloves are not manly enough, but those are the same men who end up having rough, busted and injured palms. So if you use chalk make sure that you don’t put on more than you need to, as chalk dries up your skin. Don’t dip your whole hand in chalk but apply only on the area that will come in direct contact with the bar.
Even so, using chalk has its advantages but so do the gloves. The gloves help provide full protection, now, depending on your training, hand size, strength and etc., your glove size, their padding, thickness, flexibility, and traction level may vary. They are not meant to be used in every single exercise you perform because it’s not needed. Gloves present a piece of material that stands between your hands and the bar, and if they are not suited to you, it can affect your training by reducing the grip security, making the bar harder to hold on to. So find your balance between these two and adapt them to serve you and your hands efficiently.
Basic Aid Gear
Two basic principles of good aid gear: • Use the lightest and simplest gear. I use the lightest gear possible as long as it does not compromise safety or functionality. Aid racks are heavy. If you compare the difference between a standard rack and a rack that uses lightweight biners and slings, the difference can be more than five pounds. Psychologically, I feel much better standing on marginal aid placements with a lighter rack. And when it comes time to free climb the Stovelegs and Pancake Flake on The Nose—5.can feel like 5.1if you have a really heavy rack.
My exceptions to using the lightest gear possible: ropes, cams, Aiders, and harness. I will describe why later.
Warning: While I encourage using whatever you can latch onto at first, never use worn out gear, especially such critical equipment as a harness, daisy chain or rope. Todd Skinner’s death on the Leaning Tower reminded us all of how important it is to check your harness carefully and retire it if there is any question about its safety.
This is an short excerpt from our Aider Buying Advice article at OutdoorGearLab. Check out the complete Big Wall Aider Review to see how various aiders compare to each other.
STANDARD AIDERS AKA ETRIERS
Examples: Fish Smart Aider — I used these for my first dozen or so walls. Great solid aider and much cheaper than the others. Metolius Step Aider — I used these for a lot of big wall ascents. The vinyl-reinforced steps definitely make them more comfortable and keep the steps open and easy to slide your foot into. The sub-steps on the second and top step are awesome for top-stepping.
LIGHTWEIGHT AIDERS AKA ALPINE AIDERS
These are best for mostly free routes where you occasionally need to use Aiders. Very light weight but uncomfortable if you are standing for more than a few minutes. Bad choice for learning to aid climb. Petzl GradiStep Etrier — These are great super-lightweight Aiders because they fold up in their own bag. Great for mostly free routes with just a few sections of aid, like the Northwest Face of Half Dome. I have used them on one-day Nose ascents but would probably use something a little beefier on my next one-day ascent. Great on alpine climbs where there might be just a little aid.
OTHER AIDERS Metolius Easy Aider — Not great for leading. Good for following until you have to clean a horizontal traverse. If you bring them for following, it means you will probably end up managing multiple sets of Aiders. That goes against what I believe is the key to having fun and succeeding at walls: keeping the systems as simple as possible.
The only widely available models are the Black Diamond Index Ascender and the Petzl Ascension Ascender. I have used the old Petzl Ascender a lot and like it a lot. The movement up the rope is not as smooth as the original Jumar but it is light and overall it works great. There is now a new version of this Ascender that has a different teeth design that Petzl says is easier on the rope. Black Diamond replaced their nForce ascender with the Index. I was not a fan of the nForce. The Index looks like a big improvement and similar to the Petzl.
An autolocking belay device like the Petzl GriGri or Trango Cinch is mandatory on a wall. There are times when you need to take your brake hand off the device to clear a rope snag or dig into the haul bag. Also, it is often hard to stay perfectly alert during a multi-hour belay. I have used the GriGri a lot and love it, especially because it is also a great belay device at the crags as well. However, I prefer the Cinch on big walls for one reason: it automatically slides up the rope when you are jugging up whereas the GriGri does not unless there is a ton of weight on the rope and everything is aligned just right. This means that between backup knots, you have a nice extra backup with the Cinch.
Read my complete Best Belay Device Review to see how the top belay devices compare. Also, check out our article How To Choose a Belay Device
Big Wall Harness
Get a harness with decent padding that is well padded at the waist and leg loops. Because I don’t like heavy gear, I don’t wear the super-beefy wall harnesses like the Yates Shield Harness but a lot of people love ‘em. Make sure there are two beefy gear loops on each side. Before you commit to a beefy harness for a mostly-free route like The Nose, make sure you are willing to sacrifice the extra weight for comfort.
Most of the time, especially on a one-day ascent, I just wear a trad climbing harness because they are light. My favorites right now are the Black Diamond Momentum or the Petzl Sama Harness.
We have a complete big wall harness review and an article How To Choose A Big Wall Harness.
Walking up and down in Aiders maybe the single most destructive activity to a pair of shoes. “What shoes to bring on a wall?” is still a question I grapple with on every climb. I have listed all the different types of footwear with their pros and cons below. I usually use climbing approach shoes but at the peak of my wall climbing activity I would buy a cheap pair of hiking boots and cover the seams in Shoe Goo or Seam Grip. Even if you buy a pair of climbing-specific approach shoes, it may still make sense to cover them in Seam Grip. Some climbers go as far as putting two tubes on each shoe! This will likely result in the fabric blowing out long before the stitching does… which is what you want to happen.
As for shoe fit, I err on the side of wearing my wall shoes a little tight. That way they perform better when doing free moves. But bear in mind that tight shoes will hurt a little more on the descent. • Generally pretty expensive. • Can be clunky when you move around in Aiders. • Bad for smearing.
Handling Work Gloves
Proving extremely popular amongst arborists and landscapers are the Arbortec Work/Handling Utility Gloves. These lightweight gloves are ideal for general handling jobs and offer the ultimate protection against cuts and abrasions due to their tactile palm and finger tabs, along with tough knuckle buffers on each hand. They are fully adjustable by means of Velcro wrist straps and also include breathable protection.
Efficient Work Gloves
As the lowest priced gloves in our entire range, the Pfanner Stretchflex Fine Grip Gloves offer superb value for money at just £3.2These gloves are designed for working in oily and wet conditions and provide a quality grip. The palms and fingertips include dotted patterns for additional grip and control. Also offered by the gloves is great flexibility, provided by the unique Stretchflex feature to complete these extremely efficient work gloves.
Climbing shoes usually consist of plastic or leather. As always, both have their advantages and disadvantages. Leather will widen somewhat more than plastic, but due to this it will also adjust itself better to the foot. Plastic is a bit more stable, but can also cause increased smelling.
There are shoes which have an additional plate in their soles. It distributes the burden on a bigger area and thereby facilitates standing. Although a large part of the feeling is lost. Soft shoes (without plate) mould itself to the steps and are almost glued to the rock. With a bit of experience, you can directly feel whether your foot will hold, however, standing is a bit more exhausting.
The plate distributes the weight and thereby facilitates standing at the expense of feeling
Pre-tensioning and downturn
The most important questions for buying shoes are first:
Requirements: Should the shoe be more comfortable (beginners or long, multipitch route touring) or aggressively tight (very small foot placements, overhangs)?
Pre-tensioning: Are you climbing difficult roofs (with pre-tensioning) or rather vertical/slight overhang (no or slight pre-tensioning)?
Heel area: Is the shoe for bouldering? Then a tighter heel.
The right size
After that, you need to find the correct size. There are a few pointers that can help you:
La Sportiva tend to be very big and often wide. If your usual size is 38, you can easily start at 36.or even 3With Scarpa you can also subtract 1.to sizes. Evolv and Five Ten are pretty close to the normal size of everyday shoes.
Three different foot forms
When looking for a fitting shoe, you should consider that not every climber has the same foot form. There are three different types: If the big toe is the longest, it is called an “Egyptian” foot form, if the second toe is the longest, they are called “Greek feet” and if both are approximately the same, it is called “Roman feet”. It is therefore possible that certain models or manufacturers simply won’t fit you. In those cases, it is better to try on an entirely different shoe, instead of different sizes. Many manufacturers have already put a wealth of information about their shoes on their homepages. On the sites of Red Chili or Rock Pillars you can find very detailed information in which shoe is best for which foot form.
Trying them on
The most important thing when trying on climbing shoes is taking enough time. While wearing them you should especially focus on whether you feel pain in the heel or the toes. Stand on edges (stairs, steps) several times – sometimes just with the tip, sometimes a bit sideways. Walk around a bit – are you in pain? Or is there a lot of air somewhere? Of course, climbing shoes are not “comfortable” in the general meaning – but you shouldn’t faint with pain just from trying them on. Even though most climbing shoes widen a bit, especially in the beginning it isn’t a good idea to buy especially tight fitting shoes. Also, caution when trying them on: The feet widen up to half a size during the day – therefore, the shoes should be tried on during the time of day you intend to use them (which is usually in the evening).
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Climbing Gloves wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Climbing Gloves
- №1 — Winter Gloves
- №2 — Yodot Outdoor Windproof Work Cycling Hunting Climbing Touchscreen Sport Gloves for iPhone 7/7S
- №3 — Winter Gloves Skeleton Zombie Bones Design Windproof Waterproof For Riding Biking Climbing Motorcycling Cycling Working Gardening