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Best Filler Paper 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]

Last Updated December 1, 2018
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Billy JacobsHi there, I’m Billy Jacobs. After putting in 38+ hours of research and testing, I made a list of the best filler paper of 2018 and explained their differences and advantages.

I will go through the main features and what you should consider when deciding which one to pick over the other. I hope that my Top 3 list will provide you great options in buying the right fit for you.

Let’s get to it!

Best Filler Paper of 2018

Customers need to be careful on how they spend their money on these products. Simply review and buy them.

After carefully examining the reviews and ratings of the people who have used them earlier this listicle has been made. On that note, I review the three best filler paper of 2018 to help you get value for your money.

Test Results and Ratings

Rank №1 №2 №3
Total 4.8 4.5 4.3
4 points
4 points
5 points
5 points
4 points
4 points
5 points
5 points
4 points
5 points
5 points
4 points
Awards 1
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№1 – Crinkle Cut Paper Shred Filler

Crinkle Cut Paper Shred Filler

Contains 1/2 LB of Crinkle Cut Paper Shred Filler – Green
Crinkle cut colored shredded paper makes a great bed for displaying your product
Perfect for Gift Wrapping & Basket Filling those extra spaces you have in your packages
Absolutely no frills

Why did this filler paper win the first place?

The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The rear part fits perfectly! It is mounted really tight and reliable.












№2 – Crinkle Paper Shred Filler for Gift Wrapping

Crinkle Paper Shred Filler for Gift Wrapping

Lush, grassy, natural looking, expands when fluffed
It’s static-free! Won’t stick to your clothing and easy to clean up
Recyclable, reusable
Guide can be a pain.
Lack of durability.

Why did this filler paper come in second place?

The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture.












№3 – Mead Filler Paper

Mead Filler Paper

Filler paper is perfect for all your notetaking needs. Filler paper is pre-punched with 3 holes for easy insertion in a 3 ring binder.
White paper; 200 sheets. Full page size of 10.5 in. x 8 in.
Sheets are college ruled and double-sided to provide plenty of writing space.
Reliable! I really like this!
Extremely expensive.
Not as good as some others we reviewed.

Why did this filler paper take third place?

It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great!












Filler Paper Buyer’s Guide

If you keep the before points in mind, you can easily go out to the market and buy filler paper, right? No!

Defining Pre Rolled Cones

Pre rolled cones are pretty much what the name suggests; they are rolling papers already rolled for you. Yes, they come rolled. Often, they are simply called “pre-rolls.” These cones are an example of a ready-made product, which appeals to many RYO enthusiasts who want to save a bit of time and energy in their day by not having to roll the paper by hand themselves.

RAW Pre Rolled Cones Sizes

RAW has two collections: RAW Classic and RAW Organic. The Organic variety is organically grown and undergoes eco-friendly processing; the paper is pure hemp and is a lighter shade of brown than Classic. The Classic is a blend of unbleached fibers and natural brown in color.

RAW Classic and Organic pre rolled cones are thin and have a clean taste. When you buy RAW cones, you will notice the brand’s unique sizes. The sizes are Supernatural, Peacemaker, Emperador, Lean, King Size, The 9Special, and the ever-popular 1/4.

The Emperador Classic Cone features hemp paper with a nine-inch length. As for RAW Supernatural Cones, they are 1inches long. The Supernatural first came on the market in 201and is good to have on hand for when you want to share the smoking experience with friends.

RAW Organic Hemp Cones Bundle

For first-class, pre rolled cones, JWare is a brand we would be remiss not to mention here. The paper cones come in elegantly designed boxes, and a packing tool is included for each cone.

If you are looking for high quality, from the package to the smoking experience, take the time to try the JWare pre rolled cones. The burn is smooth, and also you don’t get any taste of paper. Plus, you don’t get any waste because they come with a paper filter to keep your marijuana from falling out of the bottom. The filter improves airflow too.

Jware Pre Rolled Cones Sizes

The pre rolled cones are made of thin cigarette paper and use a quality glue. JWare offers different sizes of cones to meet a range of smoker’s needs. There are the JWare Medium cones, for example, which have a 98mm paper length.

Or, maybe you want to buy the JWare King Size Cones instead. They have a paper length of 109mm and come in various packs. The King Size is a good choice when you’re sharing the smoke with a friend.

Cyclones Pre Rolled Cones

The brand uses a triple-dip flavor system to create the delicious taste. You can get the Cyclones unflavored paper cones too if you are not a fruity fan. Each two-pack of cones has a packing tube so that they won’t get crushed. Plus, they are an affordable price at Rolling Paper Depot.

As for the smoke that you’ll have with Cyclones, the pre rolled cones have a slow, smooth burn. For an even slower burn, check out Cyclones Xtra Slow Cones, which are double-wrapped cigarette tubes. They are natural, wrapped twice with a non-homogenized tobacco leaf. Both the inner and outer leaf are flavored, for even more deliciousness.

Cyclones cones are sturdy, tobacco free, and easy to load. If you are craving a tasty pre roll, then you’re likely to enjoy Cyclones.

How to Properly Fill Pre Rolled Cones

By now it is clear that pre rolled cones eliminate the entire rolling stage; they save you significant time and energy in 201Of course, you still have to fill them with cannabis. So, what is the best way to do so?

When it comes to filling pre rolled cones, the most effective process is as follows:

Pack it gently within the cone, using a tip or similar instrument

Light up the cone

By the end, you will have a great-looking smoke. Anyone looking at you with it in hand will not realize you have not hand-rolled it either.

Yes, it is a straightforward process of filling and then smoking. But, if you would rather not fill the cone by hand, there are pre rolled cones filling machines from RAW and other brands that automate the stuffing stage.

How Cone Filling Machines Work

You no longer have to fill rolled cones by hand when you use a pre rolled cones filling machine. There are two basic types of cone filling machines; the first one injects the cone with weed, while the second one uses vibration and gravity to fill the cone.

With this type of device, each cone is filled to perfection, saving you headaches. When you’re shopping for a cone filling machine, make sure you choose one that fits the size of cone you use. There are filling machines made to fill small cones, while others are for King Size cones.

The RAW 1/Cone Filler, for example, is designed specifically to make filling pre rolled 1/cones easier. Use it time and again to fill 1/size cones one by one. It works with most brands’ 1/cones. RAW also offers a King Size Cone Filler.

Or, if you would rather fill multiple cones at one time, rather than going one a time, to save time, check out the RAW Thumper Cone Filler. This handy piece of equipment is able to fill 100 pre rolled cones at one time!

When your weed is loose on a tray, and you want to pick it up to put into the cone, how do you do it? One of the simplest ways to scoop it up and load it into a cone is to use the RAW Cone Loader. This clever tool is funnel shaped and makes filling the cone a cinch, especially when used with the included non-stick scraper and bamboo poker.

Pre Rolled Cones & Celebrities

In the hip hop world, many singers have publically endorsed pre rolled cones, even launching their own custom brands. From Wiz Khalifa to Snoop Dogg, many stars are embracing cannabis in their lives.

Wiz recently collaborated with RAW rolling papers to design several pre roll tins covered with 3D artwork. Then the singer teamed up with RAW again to craft The Wiz Cone, which is a pre rolled cone available in 1/4, Peacemaker, and King Size. The Wiz Cone, in either size, is easy to fill, comes with a RAW Perfecto Cone Tip, and has an anti-run watermark.

With many celebrities smoking weed and raising awareness about it, we look forward to watching how their activities affect laws in the United States and around the world concerning our favorite green plant.

Summing Up Pre Rolled Cones

There is no denying that there is demand for pre rolled cones. They come already rolled for you, so right away they eliminate the prep state for RYO enthusiasts. Simply fill, close, and smoke the pre roll. For both medical and personal smokers, this option is convenient, and the simplicity of it is welcome.

Although pre rolled cones tend to be a little pricier than just buying the sheets and rolling them yourself, they do save you time and energy. So, paying a bit more for them may be worth it to you. Plus, they are a saving grace if you have joint pain that makes hand rolling difficult. Also, if you want to test a strain, just fill a cone with it and see how it goes without investing a lot of time in the process.

While not all pre rolled cones are top quality, you can depend on RAW, Cyclones, JWare, Cones, and Juicy Jay’s cones, in our opinion. They are available at trustworthy head shops like Rolling Paper Depot and provide an enjoyable smoke, whether you want the natural options of RAW, the delicious flavors of Juicy Jay’s, JWare’s premium lineup or Cyclones clear cones.

We appreciate that some brands like RAW offer pre rolled cones in unique sizes and there are a range of materials that can make up the paper. The pre rolled cones can be flavored too. Whatever you want, the chances are good that it’s available somewhere.

So, now that you know all about pre rolled cones, it’s time to move on to the next topic. But, first, let’s light one up and enjoy.

Rolling Papers Category Pages

Some Basic Definitions

I could write a whole glossary just on the terms and terminology used in the fountain pen world, but that’s not my goal here. My goal is simply to give you the most basic definitions you’ll need to understand the rest of this article. I want to focus on things that someone who doesn’t know much about fountain pens wouldn’t know, while not getting into details that are unnecessary for someone just getting started.

The nib

The nib is the part of the pen that touches the paper, and that the ink comes out of. On most pens it will be stainless steel, and on higher end pens it will be gold. By changing a nib, you can completely change the experience of writing with a pen. One of the first decisions you’ll have to make when buying a fountain pen is the size of the nib’s tip.

On most standard fountain pens, nibs can come in various points from extra fine to bold. The tip of the nib will determine just how much ink is released, and the thickness of the lines that you will put down. In addition to extra fine to bold, there are also a variety of other nib types like a cursive italic, or a stub. These special grinds are best suited for specific handwriting styles.

To further complicate matters, nib sizes aren’t standard. A “fine” nib on a Japanese pen, will tend to be finer than a “fine” nib on a German pen.

Certain nibs work better with certain inks, and certain handwriting styles.

Nibs made of softer materials, like gold, will wear in such a way as to adapt to the handwriting of the person using it. As such, if you have a very soft nib on a pen, and you lend it to someone else, the ink flow will seem strange to them, because the pen will have literally adapted itself to you.


A converter changes a cartridge filling system into refillable solution. There are various types of converters and filling systems, but the main purpose remains the same: a refillable reservoir that holds the ink that your pen uses to write. Some pens come with converters, others need to be ordered. For instance, a Pilot Metropolitan comes with both a cartridge and an empty converter, whereas a Lamy Safari comes only with a cartridge. If you want to refill a Safari, you either need to buy more cartridges, or you need to buy a converter plus ink.

Get Used to Writing With It

The day I got my Lamy Safari, I started using it immediately. Admittedly, my first impression was less than stellar. I found the pen scratchy to write with, and found that it was skipping. I began to wonder if I was doing something wrong, and then questioned whether getting a fine nib might have been a mistake.

I stuck to it, and a few hours into taking notes with my pen, somethign magical happened: the ink started to flow better!

This was my first fountain pen lesson. The way a fountain pen works is different from the way a ballpoint or a gel ink pen works. Pen doesn’t just start flowing automatically. The ink needs to work its way through the entire nib. In addition, if ink has been sitting in the pen for a while, it may have dried slightly, which will give you a less smooth writing experience. In general, using it will allow you to get through the drier ink and then it will start to flow.

As I continued to write with my fountain pen, the more I found I liked it.

Try it on Different Papers

As I started using my new pen, I began to notice something that I had never really taken stock of using my old ballpoints or gel pens: paper quality. I soon found that some papers worked great with my pen, while others made it feel scratchy, or caused the ink to bleed.

You can read exhaustive articles on which paper is the best to try with what ink and pen combination. However, my best advice is to try a bunch of different things.

Write on whatever plain pad of paper you have lying around the office. Write on post-it notes. Write in your favourite notebook. Write on scraps of paper.

You’ll soon get a feel for the difference that paper can make.

Brad recently wrote a great piece for Rhodia about how paper is like the tires on a car, and it’s true. You don’t really notice what kind of tires are on your car until you have a high performance car that can take advantage of them. The fountain pen is a little bit like the high performance car.

Returning to my car analogy, it’s kind of like having your every day tires for the commute to work, and saving your performance tires for the track on weekends.

Notice the Colours

One of the great things about fountain pens, and refilling them is the sheer variety of different colours. It’s not unusual for a single ink company to produce a few dozen colours. And before you think that after a few primary colours, all other inks are just variations of the same thing, you are missing a huge part of the ink experience. It is only when I started using fountain pens that I started to truly understand what it meant to appreciate an ink’s texture and depth of colour.

Even the standard blue that came with my Lamy Safari had more variation and depth than any other ink I’d ever written with before.

The moment you start getting excited about watching the ink of your pen dry, that’s when you know you’re hooked. So, at this point, I would suggest that you buy at least one ink refill.

Try Different Inks

Before you spend a fortune on a Nakaya or some other crazy expensive pen, realize just how much fun you can have just by trying different inks.

In my mind, inks are a seriously under-appreciated part of the fountain pen experience. Most articles you will read about fountain pens focus on the pens (with good reason, it is what you’re using to write!). However, changing the ink in your pens is a more affordable way to get a great variety of experiences with your fountain pen.

Think about it. Instead of spending multiple hundreds of dollars on new pens, you can spend a few bucks on a new bottle of ink, ink your favourite pen, and boom, just like that, whole new writing experience!

Closing Words

At this point, you’re probably thinking to yourself, this all seems like a lot just to buy a pen. And you’re right. It is. However, if you just want a pen that you can pull out at any time and it just works, then I’d suggest grabbing a roller ball or a gel pen. There’s a ton of great ones out there, and you can read through Brad’s reviews to find the best of the best. If you’re looking for a utilitarian tool, that’s the way to go.

However, if you’re approaching fountain pens as a piece of art, a hobby, or worse, a potential addiction, I think it’s worth taking the time to understand the basics with a few of the cheaper options before diving head first into the vast selection of premium pens that exist out there.

And then there’s using a fountain pen.

Putting aside one’s ballpoint and picking up a fountain pen is akin to making the switch from shaving with a cartridge razor to using a safety or straight razor. The nature of the tool requires more skill and attention on your part, but the experience is richer and the result sharper.

If you’ve always wanted to see what it’s like to literally get the ink flowing, this article offers an accessible primer on the basics you need to know to get started.

A Brief History of Fountain Pens

While the earliest record of a fountain-like pen dates from the 10th century, fountain pens as we know them today didn’t exist until the late 19th century. In 1884, an American named Lewis Waterman patented the first practical model after supposedly having a sales contract ruined by a leaky precursor. Before Waterman’s version, fountain pens were plagued with ink spills and blots, and were unreliable and inconvenient.

Waterman solved this airflow issue by cutting a series of three fissures in the pen’s feed. This created a capillary-esque mechanism that functioned by drawing ink into these small channels at the same time that air came back in over the fissures and entered the reservoir. The modern fountain pen was born.

Though Waterman’s innovation made fountain pens much more effective and convenient to write with, filling the pen remained a messy and tedious affair. You had to unscrew a portion of the barrel and use an eyedropper to fill the reservoir drop by drop. At the turn of the 20th century, companies began introducing self-filling reservoirs that allowed users to put the nib in the inkbottle and fill the reservoir by pulling a lever or twisting the barrel.

Despite the introduction of the ballpoint pen in the early 1900s, fountain pens maintained their dominance as the go-to writing instrument up until the mid-point of the century. It was not until the 1960s, when the ballpoint pen’s reliability increased, and its price decreased, that fountain pen sales began their long and steady decline in the United States. While they’re still widely used by students in private schools in England and the rest of Europe, in America the fountain pen is largely seen as more of a collector’s item, a status symbol, or the focus of a twee hobby. However, thanks to the internet’s ability to connect enthusiasts, the fountain pen has seen something of a resurgence in the U.S. Today you can find countless forums and blogs dedicated to the virtues of this classic writing instrument.

Why Write With a Fountain Pen

Think you might like to branch out from your ballpoint? Here are a few reasons to give fountain pens a try:

It feels better. Because you don’t have to press down as hard to write as you do with a ballpoint pen, writing with the fountain variety is much easier on the hand. It allows for extended periods of writing without fatigue. It’s easier to get in the flow, when using something that truly flows.

It’s better for the environment. With a ballpoint pen, once you use up all the ink, you toss it into the trash. While you can buy disposable fountain pens, most fountain pens aren’t meant to be thrown away. When you run out of ink, just refill the reservoir and you’re back in business.

More economical in the long run. I don’t want to think about the amount of money I’ve thrown away or lost in the form of half-used ballpoint pens. Because of their disposable nature, I’m pretty careless with them. If I lose one, oh well, I can buy a whole new pack of ‘em.

There’s something about a fountain pen that inspires you to take care of it. The hefty price tag of some models certainly has something to do with that. But the fountain pen’s storied tradition provides an aura of timelessness and permanence that encourages the owner to safeguard it; it may even become a family heirloom.

The result is that, besides the initial investment of the pen, the only recurring expense you’ll accrue is just buying more ink every now and then. Consequently, you save money in the long run with a fountain pen compared to a ballpoint.

It makes cursive handwriting look better. Besides reducing fatigue, the light touch and flowing hand movements that are necessitated by a fountain pen make your handwriting look better.

Notice the slit down the middle and the breather hole.

The nib is the metal tip of the fountain pen that touches the paper. Early fountain pen nibs were fashioned from gold due to the element’s flexibility and resistance to corrosion. However, most modern nibs are made with stainless steel or gold alloys because of their strength and durability.

If a nib is made from pure gold, it’s usually tipped with a hard-wearing metal like iridium or some metal from the platinum family. Steel nibs already have a hard tip, so tipping them with another metal isn’t necessary.

Along the center of the nib runs a small slit that helps bring ink down the tip by way of the aforementioned capillary action. You’ll also find a “breather hole” bored into the top of the nib to help bring air back into the reservoir to prevent a vacuum from forming. The breather hole also serves a structural purpose by acting as a stress-relieving point, which helps prevent the nib from cracking with the repeated flexing that occurs during use.

Nibs come in varying tip shapes and grades. The three basic shapes are round, stub, and italic. Round is the most common shape and provides a fairly uniform-looking line on the paper. Stub and italic nibs are typically used in calligraphy.

Nib grades designate the size of the tip. Five basic grades exist: extra fine (XF), fine (F), medium (M), broad (B), and double broad (BB). The most common nib grades are fine and extra fine.

Reservoir or Filling Systems

The reservoir is the cavity inside the fountain pen that holds the ink. This part has seen the most innovations over the course of the pen’s evolution. We could devote an entire article to the various types of reservoirs and filling systems that you can find on antique fountain pens, but for the purposes of this article, we’ll stick to the most common ones you’ll find in modern models:

Cartridge. This is the most common type of reservoir in fountain pens today. A cartridge is a small, sealed disposable plastic tube that holds the fountain pen ink. When a cartridge runs out of ink, you simply remove the old cartridge and put in a new one. The main benefit of cartridge reservoirs is the convenience. The downside is that you often have to rely on the propriety cartridge made for your particular pen. Consequently, your choices of ink will be more limited. Also, there’s the cost factor. While cartridges aren’t too expensive, refilling your pen yourself can save you money in the long run.

Converter. If you don’t like the idea of having to buy new cartridges every time you run out of ink, consider buying a cartridge converter for your fountain pen. A cartridge converter looks pretty much like a cartridge and can fit most cartridge pens, but it has a filling mechanism that allows you to refill it with ink whenever you run out. The upside is that you open yourself up to a variety of inks to use, the downside is convenience; while it’s not hard to fill your cartridge converter, it’s certainly more of a hassle than simply throwing away an old cartridge and installing a new one. Here’s how to fill a cartridge converter.

How to Write With a Fountain Pen

Post your cap (or not). Posting your cap means putting the cap on the end of your pen while you’re writing. The pen usually feels more balanced in the hand when you have it posted. Of course, some folks prefer to write with the cap set aside. Experiment and find what works for you.

Hold it at the correct angle. The pen should make a 40 to 55-degree angle with your writing surface. A fountain pen’s “sweet spot” is usually in this range, as ink flows more easily at these angles. The exception is a pen with a round nib; in this case, you want the nib’s top to point straight up and not be rotated to either side.

Use less pressure. You don’t need to press down to get the ink to flow like you do with a ballpoint pen. In fact, too much pressure can prevent the ink from flowing properly or can damage the nib. Keep your strokes light.

Use your arm. Most people are “finger writers,” meaning that they just move their fingers to write. Finger writing has a tendency to cause you to apply too much pressure to the pen, which rotates it and in turn causes ink flow problems. Instead, focus on using your shoulder and arm more while you’re writing. It will feel weird at first, but this style of writing keeps your nib steady and helps reduce the pressure on it.

How to Take Care of Your Fountain Pen

Don’t let others borrow your pen. As you use your pen, the nib will adapt to your writing style. If you let someone else borrow it for extended periods and apply their own style to it, the nib can get out of whack. If they just need to sign something, let them borrow it; it’s a gentlemanly gesture. If they need to write an essay, lend them a cheap-o ballpoint.

Give your pen a regular flush. It’s recommended that you give your fountain pen a flush once a month. It ensures proper ink flow by removing any build-up in the nib or feed. Here’s how you do it.

In addition to flushing, you might consider soaking your nib in a cup of cool water overnight to remove any stubborn ink build-up.

The Fountain Pen Network.

A forum dedicated to fountain pens. The folks there are super helpful with beginners, so if you have a question, ask. They also have lists of groups, meetings and events dedicated to fountain penning (yeah, I just used fountain pen as a verb), as well as a marketplace where you can buy or trade new fountain pens.

Know when it’s dry

This purple glue lets you see where you apply it but dries clear.

After testing four leading glue sticks, we like Elmer’s Disappearing Purple School Glue Sticks best. They’re cheap, good at sticking stuff to other stuff, and simple to work with. As we discovered, the colored glue isn’t just a gimmick; it’s actually worth the minimal extra cost. The Elmer’s glue applies as an easy-to-see purple and gradually turns colorless, so you can tell which areas you’ve already glued.

We tested our sticks (Elmer’s Washable All Purpose, Elmer’s Disappearing Purple, the clear UHU stic, and the color UHU stic) by making rudimentary construction-paper art projects, gluing dimes and nickels to a piece of paper and suspending it from the bottom of a kitchen cupboard. We also uncapped each stick to see if any would dry out. All of the glues performed well; paper stuck to paper, and even after five days no nickels and dimes fell down from underneath my cupboard. (I’m still waiting.) After sitting uncapped for 1hours, each glue stick did dry out a bit, but chopping the dried ends off made them usable again.

The color UHU stic’s color-changing option was not as great as the Elmer’s. Although it applied well and did a fine job of gluing, its purple hue turned colorless much too quickly, negating the benefits of using tinted glue. —AK

Buying a stand-alone calculator is hard to justify these days when every phone has a capable one built in and Wolfram Alpha is easier to use than any graphing calculator. If you need a graphing calculator, typically your school will tell you which one to buy. But if you want a scientific calculator for use during exams where graphing calculators are prohibited, or if you simply love the feel of real buttons, we recommend the Texas Instruments TI-36X Pro because it has all the standard scientific-calculator functions (exponents, roots, scientific notation, etc.) and can solve for equations the way they appear in the textbook—no specialized notation for you to memorize. That makes it a great pick for students.

Out of the nine calculators we considered, the TI-36X Pro was the most user-friendly model approved for the NCEES FE exam—an essential criterion for engineering students. This gives it an edge over the otherwise comparable Sharp EL-W516XBSL. The Casio fx-11is another fine calculator, especially if you prefer stiffer buttons. But most people who are familiar with TI’s graphing-calculator interface (that is, anyone who has taken a calculus course lately) will find the TI-36X’s interface more familiar and easier to use. —Michael Zhao

Copy the Template

Click the “File” tab on the command ribbon, select “New” to open the New templates list and then enter “lined paper” (without quotations) in the “Search for online templates” box. Press “Enter” to bring up the filtered thumbnails.

Select “Lined Paper” in the Category pane to display a more refined list of Word thumbnails. Examples include “Handwriting Practice Paper (Intermediate),” “Music Staff Paper (Per Page)” and “Patient Progress Notes (Online).”

Press “Ctrl-S” to save this Word document.

Press “Ctrl-P” to open the Print window and select the Printer and Settings options. The Page Setup link includes options on tab sheets: Margins, Paper and Layout. Click “Print” and check this first printout before printing additional lined paper.

Tip Size

The tip size of a nib determines how wide a line it will make. They are typically rated from narrowest to widest as extra fine, fine, medium, or broad. Japanese fountain pens typically write about a size finer than an equivalent pen from a non-Japanese brand. For example, a Pilot medium nib will write about the same as a Kaweco fine nib. People with smaller handwriting should choose a fine or extra fine nib, while those with larger handwriting may prefer a medium or broad nib.

Tip Shape

Nib tips can be either round or shaped. Most are round, meaning that they create the same line width in any direction—just like a regular ballpoint pen. Shaped nibs will have different line widths depending on the direction of the stroke. The most common type of shaped nib is italic, which makes wide vertical strokes and a thin horizontal strokes. If you are new to fountain pens, we recommend picking a nib with a round tip.

Built-In Filling System

Other fountain pens use built-in filling systems like a piston or vacuum mechanism. These pens can be filled straight from a bottle and typically have a much larger ink capacity than a cartridge or converter. On the other hand, they can’t be used with cartridges, so you’ll need to have an ink bottle on hand when they do run out of ink.


With eyedropper pens, the barrel of the pen itself serves as the ink reservoir. As the name suggests, eyedropper pens are filled using an eyedropper or syringe. They can hold far more ink than any other type of pen. Very few pens are built to be used as eyedroppers, but many cartridge fountain pens can be converted into eyedropper pens by following a few simple steps.

For an in-depth, hands-on look at the different kinds of fountain pen filling systems, check out our video here.

Going Deeper

These pens are ideal for anyone who has used fountain pens for a while and is looking for something a little nicer or more interesting. This is the point where fountain pens really start to branch out and take on their own distinctive styles. They can offer better styling, better build quality, and other cool features like a built-in filling system or all-metal construction.

Print this Project

Read and follow the directions on the container, especially the hazard warnings. Work in a well ventilated space; outdoors is best. Wear a respirator when sanding.

Have a container of lacquer thinner or acetone on hand, as well as a roll of paper towels. Clean any Bondo on your skin and tools before it hardens — with soap and water if possible, or with lacquer thinner.

Clean and sand or scuff the surface to prepare it for body filler — it will not adhere to smooth, dirty or oily surfaces. Generally, if paint will stick, so will Bondo.

Fully cured Bondo is harder than soft pine, and is not flexible. It can be worked (drilled, sawed, routed, and finished) similarly to hardwood.

Bondo 26can easily be applied, shaped and finished within an hour.

1Body filler that will be exposed to water should be painted.

Stir the Bondo a bit with a flat stick or a screwdriver if it has separated.

With a palette knife, quickly apply the Bondo, leaving some excess material to be removed.

Before the filler is fully cured, shape and sand per the tips above, using a Dremel tool for details.

For a super-smooth finish, apply a very thin layer of glazing and spot putty with your palette knife. Let it thoroughly dry, then paint. Sand with at least 220-grit paper between coats.

General Observations

Nice and light, very toasty. Not very complex. Hints of tea.

Steps up a bit with a light peppering of spice inch in.

2/nice light pepper and woody flavor, great little toasty cigar.

Picking up stronger notes of roasted coffee and a slight nuttiness. A nice sweetness at the end as well. Pairs extremely well with coffee.


Set yourself a strict budget based on what you can afford. Remember that purchase price is just the start though, as there are ongoing running costs like fuel, maintenance, insurance, plus the interest on any finance used for the purchase to consider.

Arranging an inspection

If the person selling the car is a private party and not a dealer, insist on inspecting the car at their home address. If the vendor isn’t willing to show you the car at their home address, they could be trying to hide something.

A diaper cover over a cloth diaper

Diaper covers come in different shapes, sizes, and colors. They use different types of closures, like snaps or Velcro, and some simply pull on. Diaper covers are often made of wool, fleece, or PUL (polyurethane laminate).

The cloth diaper used under a diaper cover can be a prefold or a flat diaper that you fold yourself, or it can be a contour or fitted diaper that doesn’t require folding.

Pocket diaper

A pocket diaper consists of a waterproof outer layer and an inner layer of fabric that has a pocket opening. An insert is stuffed into the pocket opening before wearing and then taken out for washing. Pocket diapers’ absorbency can be adjusted by using more or fewer absorbent inserts.

The inner layer of fabric is sometimes made with stay-dry material to keep your baby comfortable. Pocket diapers have elastic around the legs and waist and fasten with snaps or tabs.

Because the insert and pocket will both get dirty when your baby pees or poops, pocket diapers are used once, then washed.

Pocket diaper tip: When removing your baby’s dirty diaper, you may want to pull out the insert before dumping both the insert and diaper into the diaper pail. That way you won’t have to deal with pulling it out on washday.


An insert (also called a booster or doubler) helps a baby’s diaper absorb moisture. Some inserts are topped with a stay-dry fabric that helps keep your baby comfortable.

Some of the diapers described above include inserts. For other types of cloth diapers, it’s an optional addition that improves the diaper’s absorbency.

Inserts can be made of any absorbent material, such as terry cloth, bamboo, hemp, or cotton.

Diaper pails

Diaper pails come in a variety of sizes and shapes. If you want, you can even use a regular garbage can.

Line your pail with either a special liner designed for that pail or a regular plastic garbage bag. Some of these liners are disposable, while others can be washed along with the diapers. Make sure the pail you use has a lid, especially if you have other children or pets in the house.

Some diaper pails have touch-top lids, and some have swing lids. Others can be opened with a foot pedal, and some even have a motion detector. Domed lids allow air to circulate in the pail and seem to reduce odor. Some pails have air filters to reduce odors.

Note: If you use the wet pail method for your diapers (where you fill the pail with water), you won’t need a liner. Choose a small, strong pail that has a comfortable handle for carrying (it’ll be heavy) and a spout for easy pouring. You’ll need to store it safely away from young children and pets.


These waterproof bags are an alternative to diaper pails. They can be hung on a doorknob or hook and are used to hold dirty cloth diapers, covers, wipes, or clothes. Wetbags come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are big enough to hold a couple of days’ worth of diapers, and others are small enough to carry in your diaper bag for changes on the go.

Project Index

Front Page  Tips & Resources  Buying Guide   Everything You Need To Know About Throw Pillows, Cushions, And Bed Pillows, Including What To Stuff Inside

Everything You Need To Know About Throw Pillows, Cushions, And Bed Pillows, Including What To Stuff Inside

A brief history of pillows

As long as humans have laid down to sleep, we’ve used pillows. Nobody has found a caveman pillow, because soft items don’t last for tens of thousands of years. But we do have pillows that have survived from ancient times, from both China and Egypt.

You can go to a museum and see an unwrapped mummy with his head still resting on his original pillow. (We’re not showing that here in case you’re reading this at lunch.)

What survives better than soft pillows are the ancient depictions of them. Carvings from Mesopotamia, Egypt, and the Americas all show royalty seated on cushions. Below is a re-created Roman sitting room.

Until the mid-1800s, people slept in a position that was closer to sitting up than lying down. Using a combination of a large bolster pillow and two or three smaller square pillows, the sleeper would prop herself against the bed’s headboard. This was thought to be a healthier position for repose

An ancient pillow tradition we still honor today

In Ancient Egypt, pillows were a sign of wealth and prestige and were often used to carry ornamental items, such as precious jewels. The amount of money a family had determined the number of jewel-covered pillows on display. Similarly, the Romans used pillows to present precious items to the bride and groom during a wedding ceremony. A page would be selected to bring in pillows laden with gifts during the ceremony. 

Royal families would present the couple with crowns brought in on a pillow. 

Today, the pillow continues as the traditional way to transport wedding rings down the aisle, usually in the shaky hands of the bride or groom’s youngest male relative.

Knife edge

Your basic pillow. The side seams taper into nice, sharp corners.

If your pillow has depth and dimension, you have a box-edge pillow, which doesn’t always have to be “box shaped” as shown above. Usually the edges are defined with contrasting piping to show off the added dimension.

A flange is fabric that extends out from the side seams, usually at least two inches or more. It softens the look of the pillow, and can also be done in a contrasting fabric.

Also known as welting, this is a covered cord that is sewn into the seam as a decorative detail. It’s like an outline for the pillow. Self-piped means the cord is covered in the exact same fabric as the body of the pillow. Contrasting is just that: a different color, pattern or texture to define the edge.

Bed Pillow

Our favorite kind. The one our head crashes into at the end of a long, home-décor-sewing day. In this case, you’re often better off simply buying the actual pillow insert, but it’s super fun to make your own pillowcases. They make great, personalized gifts! Just remember the four basic sizes:

The most choices in pillow inserts

Today, Fairfield is still family run (led by the founder’s grandson, Jordan). After revolutionizing the quilt batting and pillow form markets with innovative polyester fiber, the company has returned to its natural fiber roots. They now produce the most innovative and diverse line of products you can find anywhere. 

In case you’re new to this, a pillow insert is a pre-filled pillow form in a plain white case that’s ready for you to stuff into the beautiful pillow cover you’re making. These inserts can be square, round, rectangular, or made of foam. 

Fairfield has combined numerous types of fiber content and cover fabrics. That’s a real plus, because you want to be able to choose exactly the right kind of insert to match your pillow’s purpose. Another thing we like about Fairfield pillow inserts is that they’re super easy to find. They’re available at the big box stores, national fabric stores, as well as your favorite local quilt shop and online retailers.

Choosing the right insert

Below is a brief guide matching the most common pillow types to the best natural options, synthetics, and blends. The links will take you directly to the Fairfield Factory Store, which sells a good variety of the the popular shapes and sizes. But as mentioned above, Fairfield products are easy to find at numerous online and in-store locations, and the variety of available sizes and styles will vary at each outlet. 

Medium-firm support – a great all-around pillow choice for everyday use. They have a 100% polypropylene cover and 100% polyester fiberfill stuffing.

Home Elegance™

Thanks to a special, fine denier polyester gel fiberfill, these inserts provide a luxurious feel and high-end plushness. The cover is a 100% cotton, 300-thread count jacquard.

The links below for these more specialized options will take you to the main Fairfield World website for all the product details. 


Looking for something plush but a little different? Nature-Fil™ inserts are filled with 50% polyester and 50% rayon fiber made from bamboo.

Long-lasting beauty outside, earth-friendly inside. A uniquely soft and silky texture. The cover is 100% cotton and the filler is 100% rayon fiber made from bamboo.

Alternative pillow stuffing

Because you keep your face on your pillow for hours each night, you should be careful about “alternative” stuffing. For instance, we haven’t been impressed by the people filling their homemade bed pillows with old pantyhose, fabric scraps or shredded newspaper.

But there are some alternative fillers that people do use for health reasons precisely because they have a beneficial fragrance or other property. Some of these are buckwheat, millet, and even hemp.

So now you know everything you need to know to sew a slew of pillows.

Part of the fun is that they’re so easy to make, you can try something just to see if it works. Take a look through the Pillow & Cushions category under the Projects tab above. Or browse through all the pillow possibilities in our Project Index. 

Tile Flooring Underlayment

Tile floors remain a popular choice, especially for bathrooms, entryways and other places a water-resistant surface is desired. The impressive variety of tile styles, shapes and colors allows you to customize your design. Tile underlayment must provide solid support, so the tile and grout won’t crack when walked on. However, it must also be somewhat flexible to absorb movement and any expansion or contraction that comes with changing temperature and humidity. Two materials meet these requirements exceptionally well.

DITRA Uncoupling Membrane

This premium underlay is manufactured from polyethylene with a unique design. DITRA features a grid structure of square cavities, the base of each cavity being larger than the top. This allows tile mortar, which bonds to the tile, to anchor within the cavity when it hardens. Check out our in-depth guide to Schulter Ditra.

The DITRA membrane, which is 1/8” thick, prevents the mortar from bonding to the subfloor. Instead, a fleece backing is laminated to the underside of the DITRA, and the backing is adhered to the wood or concrete subfloor using thin-set mortar.

DITRA is an underlayment that allows for movement and expansion/contraction while preventing the transfer of stress that commonly cracks grout and tile. This polyethylene membrane is an excellent moisture and vapor barrier too, and it can be installed over wood or concrete including floors with radiant heat. DITRA and the thicker DITRA-XL come in rolls 3’ wide.

Hardwood Flooring Underlayment

For our discussion of underlayment, a wide range of flooring comes under the heading of hardwood. It includes domestic solid hardwood flooring such as oak, maple, hickory and ash, and exotic varieties like Brazilian cherrywood, koa, teak or sakura. Engineered flooring with a layer of solid hardwood on top and layers of composite material beneath is included. We’ll throw in cork and bamboo too, since the underlay options are the same as for hardwood.

Cork Hardwood Floor Underlayment

Cork is also used beneath hardwood flooring, and you’ll find products with and without a moisture barrier included. Generally speaking, wood should be allowed to breath, and hence, no moisture barrier is needed.

However, in high-humidity locations, it’s safer to use a barrier. Remember, solid hardwood shouldn’t be installed in basements or wet locations.

Top brands: Eco-Cork, AcoustiCORK, Manton, WidgetCo, QEP

Cork underlayment installation: This is a pliable material that can be easily trimmed to accommodate drains, doorways and other obstacles.

Rubber Hardwood Floor Underlayment

Rubber underlayment is a third choice for use with hardwood floors. In addition to excellent moisture resistance, the rubber does a good job reducing noise. It does not need to be glued down, and that saves time and hassle during installation and removal in the future.

Available from 2mm (5/64”) to 9mm (3/8”), rubber underlayment offers a moisture barrier and better sound-reducing qualities than foam or cork. Rubber also offers superior insulation. It is easy to work with, but it costs more than other underlayment options.

Top brands: Sound Terminator, RB Silent Tread, Absorba Sound, Rubber Flooring

Rubber underlayment installation: This material is produced in rolls and is easily cut to size and trimmed for fit. No gluing is required. Seams should be butted rather than overlapped.

Foam Underlay for Engineered Hardwood

Foam is a versatile underlay that provides good sound absorption, resists mold and can be recycled. Upgraded foam includes rubber or fibers of other material to increase density, moisture resistance and durability. You’ve got your option of foam with a moisture barrier included, often called combination foam, or foam without a barrier. The combination foam is the right choice where high-humidity conditions exist in the room or in space beneath the room where hardwood floors are installed. This underlay is similar to the foam underlay for laminate.

Top brands: QEP Roberts, LVT, MP Global, Courey Eco-Friendly, KronoSwiss

Foam underlayment installation: Foam underlay is available in rolls and will be easy to install if you have basic experience using hand tools. Roll out the material and use scissors or a utility knife to trim edges and around obstacles. The edges should be butted, not overlapped.

Carpet Underlayment

The primary type of carpet underlay is foam or rubber carpet padding, especially when the subfloor of wood or concrete is in good condition. Today’s padding options are larger than ever. Popular types include:

Top brands: ScotchGard, Step Ahead, Memory Foam, Traffic Master

Carpet padding Installation: The padding is easy to cut and trim around obstacles with scissors or a carpet knife. Seams are butted, and the material is installed with a staple gun and one staple every two to three square foot.

See our carpet buyers guide for more carpet buying and installation info.

Vinyl Underlayment

Top brands: All home improvement stores sell this material in open stock, and it usually doesn’t have a brand name associated with it

Plywood underlay installation: For larger areas, use 4’x8’ sheets and for smaller areas such as bathrooms use 4’x4’ sheets. Remove toilets, pedestal sinks and similar fixtures before installation. Use a handsaw to cut pieces to size and to trim around drains and other obstacles. Seams in large areas should be staggered. Use 1/8” underlayment nails to secure the plywood to a wood subfloor and plywood adhesive to secure it to concrete. Fill the seams with self-leveling compound using a 6” trowel.

Cutting and Pasting

Firstly mix your paste in a bucket, ensuring that it’s not too sloppy. Then cut two lengths of wallpaper to get a feel for it, resist the temptation to cut all lengths until you are confident of your measurements. Next brush the paste on the wallpaper, working from the centre outwards. Let it sit for a few minutes so that it slightly absorbs the paste, this will allow the paper to settle tightly on the wall as it dries. Taking the pasted wallpaper to the wall, slide it into place using a clean brush. Make sure to leave an extra inches spare at the top, this excess wallpaper will then be trimmed later to reveal a clean line.





How to save up to 86%? Here is little trick.

You must visit the page of sales. Here is the link. If you don’t care about which brand is better, then you can choose the Filler Paper by the price and buy from the one who will offer the greatest discount.



Final Word

First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.

Most important, have fun and choose your Filler Paper wisely! Good luck!

So, TOP3 of Filler Paper



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