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Best Index Cards 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]

Last Updated December 1, 2018
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Billy JacobsHi there, I’m Billy Jacobs. After considering 44 of the most highly rated index cards and testing eight of them for more than 13 hours, we’re find the best index cards of 2018.

The reviews are compiled through a mix of expert opinion and real-world testing. What I would like you to remember as you browse my website is that I don’t work in the industry so the reviews I have are based on good old fashioned honesty.

Best Index Cards of 2018

There are dozens of choices for an index cards these days. These are composed of modern styling with modern technology to match it. Here are some good examples. Many brands have introduced index cards on the market. These brands have resulted in a variety for the user. These require that the consumers be well aware of what they are buying so as to make the best choice.

I’ve based my selection methodology on customer feedback, the size, functionality, and budget to meet various demands. The “Total” indicates the overall value of the product.

Test Results and Ratings

Rank №1 №2 №3
Total 4.8 4.5 4.3
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№1 – AmazonBasics Heavy Weight Ruled Index Cards

AmazonBasics Heavy Weight Ruled Index Cards

100-count pack of white heavy-weight index cards; ruled on one side for easy note taking
Made from top-quality heavy commercial stock for added strength; ideal for studying, list making, and more
Quality engineered with precision-cut edges for uniform size
I didn’t notice a single drawback yet

Why did this index cards win the first place?

I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days.












№2 – AmazonBasics 4 x 6-Inch Ruled White Index Cards

AmazonBasics 4 x 6-Inch Ruled White Index Cards

500-count pack of white index cards; ruled on one side for easy note taking
Ideal for creating flash cards, studying for an exam, making lists, and more
Quality engineered with precision-cut edges for uniform size
Could be more durable.
Heavy and big.

Why did this index cards come in second place?

I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture.












№3 – Oxford Ruled Index Cards

Oxford Ruled Index Cards

Ruled on one side for fast, legible note taking
The classic 3″ x 5″ size lets you study and prepare anywhere
Now with premium-weight paper durable enough for any assignment
Length might be an issue with some customers.
Less durable.

Why did this index cards take third place?

This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.












Index Cards Buyer’s Guide

If you keep the before points in mind, you can easily go out to the market and buy index cards, right? No!

Card Back Design

The backside design on a card can range from pre-printed simplistic patterns to custom graphics or photographs. What you choose for the back design is not important as long as you select an opposing design when using multiple decks in a game. It is common for dealers to have a set-up containing one blue deck and one red deck or one green deck and one red deck. This way, decks will not get mixed up and players can request deck changes based on color.

Once you settle on a card type, keep the cards stored away from heat in a dry area. Do not expose them to direct sunlight. When a card is damaged, save the remainder of the deck to use as replacement cards for other decks.


A £SD card from a supermarket will give you the same results as using the latest generation of card from Lexar, SanDisk or Samsung. The difference, however, is that the cheaper card may do it much more slowly, be less reliable, have fewer backup measures, different components, and, in terms of memory card data recovery, may not be such a wise choice if things go wrong and your images go missing.

Increasing speed

From time to time it is considered good housekeeping to format your card and this can help increase its write speed. In most digital cameras you are able to format your card in the menu. This wipes all the images on the card, freeing up storage and clearing minor problems that may have developed on the card. Just make sure you have your images saved elsewhere before formatting!

You can sometimes help increase the read speed of your card to your computer if you are using a USB or FireWire accessory such as the Lexar UDMA Dual Slot (CF and SD) model or the SanDisk ImageMate Multi-Card USB 2.0 Reader.

Around £12-£30

From the Samsung Pro line, this card offers quick speeds of 80MB/s, and at 16GB you can save plenty of photos and HD videos, plus use it as storage to transfer files to different devices. With a very reasonable price this ticks all the boxes.

Find the best deals for the Samsung Pro MB-SGAGB 16GB SDHC


UDMA stands for Ultra Direct Memory Access and is a storage interface standard originally developed for hard disks. If your camera supports UDMA then the use of fast UDMA cards can mean quicker buffer clearing, thus allowing longer bursts of high-speed sequential shooting to be achieved. The earliest UDMA cards were rated between 200 and 300x, where 1x = 150KB/sec. Therefore, 200x cards, in theory, could reach a transfer rate of 30MB/sec, and 300x cards up to 45MB/sec. Today, 600x (90MB/sec) and even 1000x cards (150MB/sec) are available.

Whether or not your camera can really make much use of the faster speeds is a moot point. The first step is to check the specifications of your camera for any mention of UDMA compatibility. Still, as with faster SD cards, with a fast card reader and fast connection to your computer via ports like USB 3.0 and FireWire 800, you will at least be able to get your images off a large card with a significantly reduced waiting time.

CFast and XQD

Compact Flash isn’t going away any time soon, but alternatives are already available in the form of XQD, which is being backed by Lexar and Nikon, plus CFast, backed by SanDisk and Sony, among others.

XQD is a new high-performance memory card format aimed at professional users, and it’s been officially adopted by the independent CompactFlash industry association. It is based on PCI Express bus protocols, which many PCs use for connecting expansion cards. Nikon currently has the only digital camera compatible with XQD, the Nikon D4.

CFast is a similar form factor card to CompactFlash, although it uses the serial ATA bus standard (SATA) and the data connector used is the same as that for SATA hard disk drives. Power connection is not the same, however, and requires an adapter for use on standard SATA ports. SanDisk, which originally had plans for XQD cards, is now focusing on CFast, along with Sony and others.

Performance and performance ratings

Some memory card manufacturers use megabytes per second (MB/s) to indicate card performance but most use a speed rating based on compact disc and recordable compact disc performance. A music CD transfers data at 150K bytes per second. This is 1x speed. A memory card rated at 100x can transfer 100 x 150K per second, or 15MB/s, and so on. Conversely if a card is rated at 100MB/s, its equivalent speed rating is 100MB divided by 150KB, or 667x. It should be noted that basic speed ratings like these indicate the maximum ‘burst’ transfer rate possible and this is rarely matched by the card’s capability to sustain a transfer rate over a period of time.

SD card speed Class ratings

The Class of an SDHC card indicates the guaranteed write speed in Mb/s – something worth thinking about if shooting a lot of high-definition video.

Because the use of cards was changing and performance started to be critical (especially for video recording) the SD card industry introduced a numerical classification to help users match up the most suitable card for their devices. It looks simple on paper:

Practical speed limitations

If all that wasn’t complicated enough, MB/sec speed ratings actually only indicate an ‘up to’ data transfer rate. In other words a 95MB/sec card should be able to hit 95MB/sec but not necessarily sustain this rate. There are lots of reasons behind this.

Even with quoted speed ratings from the manufacturer, you may never see the sustained performance of a card peaking at these speeds. For example, if you use a card reader connected via a standard ‘High Speed’ USB 2.0 cable, the theoretical top speed of the cable is 480 megabits/sec (60MB/sec) – but, because of various factors, the speed may be limited to a maximum of just half that.

If you want to benefit from the faster speeds offered by fast cards you need a card reader designed to connect via a very fast interface, such as USB 3.0. Even so, sustained rates of 90-95MB/sec by cards rated at these speeds is rarely achieved. One reason is that data files stored on the card are probably fragmented, requiring the controller to retrieve many constituent parts of the file from its memory store, which is less efficient than with one contiguous file. Even with a very fast card reader connected to a super-fast port you may find that 50-60MB/sec is a more realistic real-world rate.

A UHS-I card, as shown by the logo on the right-hand side

Many SD cards now available are emblazoned with ‘U1′ and ‘I’, which stands for Ultra High Speed level-UHS-I cards have high-speed controllers that can enable very fast read and write times, up to a theoretical 50MB/sec. A later iteration of UHS-I also supports faster transfers of up to a little over 100MB/sec. But once again, be wary of UHS-I cards that appear to have fast read rates but also slow write rates. UHS-I cards will only be of full value if your camera supports the UHS-I protocol. It’s a good idea to check the manufacturer’s specifications of your camera to confirm whether or not UHS-I is supported. Nevertheless, you can use a UHS-I card in a camera that doesn’t support UHS-I.

In-camera performance

Building extra performance into a camera’s memory card interface adds to the manufacturing cost of the camera. Part of this is down to the use of larger memory buffers in the camera. Less expensive cameras tend to have smaller buffers and slower bus speeds. What this boils down to is less frames-per-second and a shorter sustained rate of sequential frames shot at the maximum frame rate when shooting continuously. Some cameras will be able to sustain higher frame rates for longer when shooting JPEG images, which are relatively small, but shooting large Raw files and simultaneous Raw+JPEG burst sequences can really test a camera’s memory sub-system and the card attached to it.

Those using a continuous shooting mode for sports and other action photography should remember that achievable burst depth is partly dependent on the speed of the memory card.

If your camera is capable of fast continuous shooting, and you need to be able to shoot long sequences at high frame rates, you’ll require a card which has the fastest possible write performance. Not only will you be able to shoot more frames in one burst before the buffer fills and stalls the camera, but the camera will be more responsive because the buffer can be emptied faster, enabling you to resume shooting after a shorter wait compared to a when using a slower card.

USB version

Only really old computers have USB 1.0 ports. At just 1megabits-per-second theoretical maximum transfer rate, the real-world speeds can be as little as half or a third of that, meaning transfer speeds as slow as half a megabyte-per-second. This would mean a modest 2GB card would take over an hour to copy across.

Be aware that USB 2.0 operates at the same lowly speed as USB 1.0 unless it’s a ‘Hi-Speed’ port. USB 2.0 Hi-Speed has a theoretical maximum data transfer rate of 480 megabits-per-second, 40 times faster than standard USB 1.0 or USB 2.0, but real world speeds can vary widely depending on the card reader and the card, with typical sustained transfer speeds varying between and 30MB/s. The system bottleneck is still going to be the USB port rather than the card.

USB 3.0 is over six times faster than USB 2.0 Hi-Speed. With a USB 3.0-compatible card reader and a fast card it should be possible to sustain 95MB/s transfers, or even faster rates. This means you can empty a 2GB card 2seconds, or a 64GB card in just over 1minutes, assuming the card’s rated maximum speed can be sustained. A possible dampener is the speed of the hard drive onto which your files will be copied on your computer. If it’s a low-spec drive it may become the system bottleneck and erode transfer speeds.

HESI AFlash Cards

Flash cards are a great way to prepare for your HESI AEntrance Exams.  Flashcards are an ideal study technique to help become familiar with vocabulary terms and facts that you will be tested on for your admission to Nursing school.  Vocabulary terms and conversion facts are perfect items to use flash cards for.

Choose from one of the following HESI AFlash Card sets to get started:  HESI AMath Flash Cards

General Notes

Each Cycle of Chapter Packs has a theme, so if you buy an entire cycle you’ll have cards that work well together. An example is the King’s Landing cycle which features shadow cards and City plots. However, sometimes you will want to cherry-pick chapter packs for specific cards if you don’t intend to explore the theme from a certain cycle. For example, every pack in the Brotherhood cycle isn’t necessary for competitive play unless you want to construct a Brotherhood-themed deck. Also, as a general rule newer chapter packs tend to pack more punch due to inevitable power creep.


To run a season themed deck, you’ll want the following packs:A Song of Summer for Carrion Bird, Black Raven, Kings of Summer and A Song of SummerThe Winds of Winter for Carrion Bird, White Raven, Kings of Winter and The Winds of WinterA Change of Seasons for A Time for RavensThe Raven’s Song for Samwell TarlyFire and Ice for The Kingsroad

Others to Consider

Wildling Horde (Balon Swann, Misinformation)Mountains of the Moon (Timett Son of Timett, The Burned Men)Where Loyalty Lies (Gregor Clegane, A House Divided)A Harsh Mistress (Pentoshi Manor, Volantis Inn)Reach of the Kraken (Little Bird, Fleet from Arbor)

This is how it works

If you invested a Ј10,000 lump sum and bought shares valued at Јeach, you’d have 1,000 shares. If you bought Ј5,000 worth of the same shares per month over two months (amounting to Ј10,000 overall), you’d buy 500 shares in the first month.

But if the share price went down to Ј9.50 in the second month, you’d be able to buy 52shares, as the shares are at a lower price. So, rather than just getting 1,000 shares for your Ј10,000, two payments of Ј5,000 buys you 1,02shares.

Investing in an ISA should ALWAYS be your first port of call

If you’re new to investing an ISA should be your preferred route for the first Ј20,000 (the current ISA limit). Most platforms will let you do this and it’s a great way to reap tax benefits at the same time as investing your money.

However, how much you’ll benefit from moving your shares to a stocks & shares ISA will also depend on things such as whether you’ll max your capital gains tax (CGT) allowance. See more on this below.

If you have more than Ј20,000 to invest, you can put the first Ј20,000 into an ISA and then use a standalone dealing account for the rest. For full details on investing in stocks & shares read the Stocks & Shares ISA guide.

The golden rules to investing

Follow the five golden rules below to ensure you have a good investment journey:

The greater return you want, the more risk you’ll usually have to accept. It’s normally wise to take on more risk the younger you are where you have more time to make up any dips in the market.

Don’t put all your eggs in one basket. Try to diversify as much as you can to lower your risk exposure, ie, invest in different companies, industries and regions.

If you’re saving over the short-term, it’s wise not to take too much of a risk. It’s recommended you invest for at least five years. If you can’t, it’s often best to steer clear of investing and leave your money in a savings account.

Review your portfolio. A fund might be a dud or you might not be willing to take as many risks as you did before. If you don’t review your portfolio regularly, you could end up with a fund account which loses money.

Don’t panic. Investments can go down as well as up. Don’t be tempted to sell or buy funds just because everyone else is.

For more on investing see our brand new Investing for beginners guide.

Charges can eat away profit

One of the biggest things to take into consideration when buying (and selling) shares is how much it’ll cost you in charges. The main ones to look out for are:

Account fee: Platforms may charge a monthly, quarterly or annual account fee, but in some cases this is waived if you make a minimum number of trades, or your account is of a certain size.

Inactivity fee: An inactivity fee may be charged unless you make a certain number of trades within a set period. However, these days most platforms don’t charge this as a bonus to lure you in.

Buying/selling shares: The fee you pay each time you buy or sell shares. You’ll often find discounts for frequent traders.

Stamp duty: When purchasing UK shares expect to pay 0.5% stamp duty and an extra Јon transactions above Ј10,000.

Dummy portfolios

If you’re worried about diving straight in at the deep end with investing, but you’re serious about doing it, then dummy portfolios let you build up your confidence first.

A lot of the platforms these days have ‘dummy’ or ‘virtual’ portfolios you can practise with. You trade exactly as you would if it were real, except you’re not actually exchanging any money or buying any real shares, so if you do make a mistake, there’s no harm done.

You have to be an existing investing customer with some companies first before they allow you to set up virtual portfolios alongside your real ones.

AJ Bell*

AJ Bell has no platform fee and if you know you’re going to make 10+ trades a month, then it has the cheapest dealing charges.

If you’re into making deals on the go, then AJ Bell also offers a mobile app for iPhone, iPad and Android devices. It also offers a range of information that would be helpful to those that are new to investing.

Interactive Investor

Interactive Investor gives you two free trades per quarter, after this, additional trades cost Јeach. The more you trade, the cheaper it gets – Јfor or more trades per month. If you know you’re an active investor and are going to make 20 trades in the first year, it’ll cost you Ј200 (free trades, 1trades at Ј10, plus platform fee).

Although, this isn’t as cheap as AJ Bell (above), if you know you’ll want to move from share dealing to trading in funds in the future, it’s a good platform to go with. It has one of the biggest ranges of funds, and a handy mobile app that you can use.

Hargreaves Lansdown*

Although it doesn’t have the cheapest buying and selling charges, Hargreaves Lansdown has no platform fee for shares, it provides a wealth of knowledge and the website is easy to use for those who are new to investing. there were more than trades the previous month and to Ј5.9if there were more than 20

If this is the first time you’ve considered any type of investing, it’ll be worth reading our beginners’ guide to investing to get a broader idea of what’s involved.

We don’t cover what to invest in because we never want to have told you to put your money in something, only for you to lose money on it.

View them online from Apple here.

If you want you can upgrade the processor to 1.4GHz, while you can also choose between either 8GB or 16GB of RAM.

While the clock speeds are only slightly higher than those featured in 2016’s 12in MacBooks, they should be faster in practice thanks to more modern Kaby Lake processor architecture. The RAM is faster, too: 1866MHz, up from 1600MHz in 2015.

The energy-efficient chips also help with battery life, adding up to an hour more than their predecessors: hours of web use, or 1hours of movie watching, with 30 days of standby – at least according to Apple.

While this is the lightest and perhaps prettiest MacBook available, it’s also one of the most expensive, and – while the new processors have closed the gap – they remain relatively low-powered for the price.

The other major downside is that it includes just a single USB-C port for both charging and data transfer. USB-C is the new standard of USB that will soon be widespread, but for now there’s an awkward transition phase during which you’ll need adapters (and they don’t come cheap) in order to use some accessories and peripherals.

While it is an utter joy to look at, and nice to use, we still feel it costs too much for too little.

Read our preview of the 20112in MacBook or, if you’d like to compare it to the previous model, our review of 2016’s 12in MacBook.

Change the page orientation to “Landscape.”

If you are using OpenOffice, click on the “Format” tab on the top of the page. On the drop down list, select “Page.” Here you will be able to change the page size and define the margins. Set the page orientation to “Landscape.”

If you are using MS Works, click on “File” and then select “Page Setup” from the drop down menu. Click on the “Size, Source & Orientation” tab to select the size and landscape orientation. Then, set your margins.

The Importance of Graphics Power

Whether you’re looking to upgrade an existing desktop, build a new one from scratch, or choose a laptop that fits your needs and budget, the graphics solution you choose could have a significant impact on your overall experience. PC makers often de-emphasize graphics cards in favor of promoting CPU, RAM, or storage options. While all of these components are important, having the right GPU matters as well, and this guide will help you pick the best options for a desktop or a laptop.

A modern GPU, whether discrete or integrated, handles the display of 2D and 3D content, drawing the desktop, and decoding and encoding video content. In this guide, we’ll discuss how to evaluate GPUs, what you need to know to upgrade an existing system, and how to evaluate whether or not a particular card is a good buy. We’ll also touch on some upcoming trends and how they could impact which card you choose.

Starting With the Basics

GPUs from these two companies are typically grouped into families of graphics processors, all of which share some common naming conventions. For the past eight years, Nvidia has followed a common format of “prefix—model number—suffix.” If two GPUs have the same model number, like the GeForce GTX 750 and the 750 Ti, the suffix “Ti” denotes the higher-end part. Nvidia has also been known to use an “X” or “Xp” to denote certain extremely high-end parts. AMD’s nomenclature is similar, with a prefix “RX,” three-digit model number, and, at times, a suffix (typically XT or XTX). Be advised, however, that these are rules of thumb rather than absolutes.

There a few key metrics to keep in mind when comparing video cards: engine clock speed, core count, onboard VRAM (memory), memory bandwidth, memory clock, and, of course, price.

Engine clock speed and core count

When comparing GPUs from the same family, you can generally assume that higher clock speed (the speed that the core works at) and more cores mean a faster GPU. Unfortunately, you can only rely on clock speed and core count to compare GPUs when you’re comparing cards in the same product family. AMD GPUs, for example, tend to contain more cores than Nvidia GPUs at the same price point.

There are three broad exceptions

First, professional workstation users who work with CAD software or in video and photo editing still benefit greatly from a discrete GPU. There are also applications that can transcode video from one format to another using the GPU instead of the CPU, though whether this is faster will depend on the application in question, which GPU and CPU you own, and the encoding specifications you target.

Second, people who need a large number of displays can benefit from a discrete GPU. Desktop operating systems are capable of driving displays connected to the integrated and discrete GPUs simultaneously. If you’ve ever wanted five or six displays hooked up to a single system, you can combine an integrated and discrete GPU to get there.

Third, there’s the gaming market, to whom the GPU is arguably the most important component. RAM and CPU choices both matter, but if you have to pick between a top-end system circa 201with a 201GPU or a top-end system today using the highest-end GPU you could buy in 2012, you’d want the former.

Index Cards & Record Cards

These handy refills for index card boxes are available from Euroffice in blank and ruled versions. We have record cards in an assortment of colours as well as A to Z guide cards for indexing. Index cards are ideal for making notes for speeches, presentations and at school to help with revision.





How to save up to 86%? Here is little trick.

You must visit the page of sales. Here is the link. If you don’t care about which brand is better, then you can choose the Index Cards by the price and buy from the one who will offer the greatest discount.



Final Word

First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.

Most important, have fun and choose your Index Cards wisely! Good luck!

So, TOP3 of Index Cards



Questions? Leave a comment below!

Chatting about Index Cards is my passion! Leave me a question in the comments, I answer each and every one and would love to get to know you better!

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