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Best Practice Swords 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated December 1, 2018
Best Practice Swords of 2018
On that note, I review the three best practice swords of 2018 to help you get value for your money. I have taken the initiative to educate you on the top three best practice swords that you can buy this year.
Welcome to my website! If you plan to buy practice swords and looking for some recommendations, you have come to the right place. You can make a choice based on the my list as you shop.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
Why did this practice swords win the first place?
I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product.
Why did this practice swords come in second place?
I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture.
Why did this practice swords take third place?
It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new.
Practice Swords Buyer’s Guide
Do not Buy Swords Online Until You Read This! “DISCOVER the real deal on how to buy swords online that some unscrupulous sword merchants would prefer you didn’t know …”
When I first decided to buy swords online, Ill be the first to admit that I really had no idea what I was doing.
And as a consequence, like most first time sword buyers, I ended up wasting a lot of my time and money on crappy sword-like objects that should have never even been drawn from their scabbards
Just take a look at some of the “survivors” from my first collection to see just how bad they were! (pictured left). categories and types of swords that exist. And the second is an easy to follow guide to commonly used sword terminology
Plus you’ll also find out how to get the very best deal when you buy swords online, including:
Your First REAL Sword
I think there are two main reasons why its better to buy a REAL sword than a purely ornamental “sword-like object” (SLO).
Firstly, lets face it, it’s a whole lot cooler to hang an authentic sword on the wall than a cheap, lightweight wallhanger that for all its functionality, might as well be made from plastic
Effortless cutting through a water filled milk jug.
Unfortunately, most swords for sale on the internet aren’t designed to take ANY abuse (read as ‘use’) at all. And I still cringe when I think of that cheap, nasty wall hanger sword that flew out of the handle and over the neighbors fence one bright, sunny summers day
Just see for yourself a “re-enactment” of this sword that I have dubbed “the little helicopter” flying through the air at around 40mph…
A sword helicopters loose into the air like a missile. NOT a good thing, and hard to explain to the neighbours…
Unfortunately, this isn’t an isolated event – these swords can fail in all manner of ways, as this video compilation will show..
VIDEO: Sword Fails Compilation “A piece of that tip just got me O’dell…”
It’s because of swords like these that when you buy swords online for the first time, it’s a good idea to you get yourself either an “entry level historical sword” or a “beater”, sometimes lumped together in the rather crude category of “battle ready swords”.
Entry level historical swords are basically affordable replicas of historical swords. They look like historical swords. They handle like historical swords. And if you play with them too hard, they’ll break like historical swords too…
At the other end of the spectrum, “beater” swords don’t always look a lot like the historical swords they are based upon. And due to a heavier and thicker than historical blade, they tend not to handle exactly the same either. But a good beater is considerably more durable than any historical sword ever was and can take on a wider range of targets without fear of failure.
As such beaters make a great choice for many beginning sword collectors, but essentially it is a matter of personal taste…
The Difference Between a REAL Sword and a Decorative ‘Sword Like Object’…
There are basically three main differences between REAL Swords and Sword Like Objects (aka “Wallhangers”, “SLOs”,”crappy swords”, etc)…
REAL Swords have been properly HEAT TREATED
Real swords (at least these days) are for safety reasons always properly heat treated and tempered to create a blade that is not too brittle and not too soft. If a sword is described as carbon steel but there is no mention of how it is heat treated and you don’t know about the manufacturer – there is a chance that it hasn’t been heat treated at all. And if it hasn’t been heat treated, it doesn’t qualify as a real sword.
REAL Swords have a FULL TANG
The weakest point of most modern swords is the handle, in particular the metal insert into the handle attached to the blade known as the tang. Unless a sword has what is known as a full tang it is loose from the handle like a helicopter blade when swung with even moderate force (and for obvious reasons cannot be called a functional sword).
The three essential characteristics described left are of course a bit simplistic. But they are solid basics. even more detail about what to look for you can find it in the second article,
Just one thing though…
When you buy swords online in this price range, you DO need to be careful.
While we do our best here to test and review swords to identify the real winners most manufacturers tend to produce products with certain distinct characteristics, and in this price range, there are really only a handful that make functional swords that strike a good
For discussions and information on real swords, check out the:
SBG Sword Forum categories and types of swords that exist. And the second is an easy to follow guide to commonly used sword terminology
I hope this information on how to buy swords online has been helpful.
Japanese training swords
Japanese iaido swords, more commonly known as iaito, are the weapons used in practicing the Japanese martial art iaido. Shopping for the right type of iaito sword is not as easy as it seems. Particularly for an iaido practitioner, it is very essential to choose the best practice sword for a more efficient execution of sword art movements. Get to know the martial art Iaido and find out about the qualities an iaido sword you should look for.
Blade length is important to draw out a sword smoothly from its sheath. If the training sword is too long, the movement of an iaido trainee will be limited and awkward. It would be difficult for him to control the sword. The following table shows standard sword blade lengths for corresponding body heights (for male only). It is best to consult your martial arts teacher on this:
Projecting Qi Through the Sword
Along with the sword form, there is a Tai Chi sword qigong form, a powerful set of exercises to improve your health and increase your stamina. According to the ancient Chinese definition, Qi is the energy existing throughout everything in the universe. Most often in modern times the word Qi is applied only to humans, and it refers to the energy circulating in your body. Qi is the life force, which enables every cell in your body to function, sometimes called ‘bioelectricity.’ Different Taiji styles may have different ways of Qigong training. No matter which style you train, the basic theory remains the same.
In order to use the sword effectively the student must learn to use his or her mind to direct and project the Qi through the sword, balancing the flow of energy with the secret sword hand. This is extremely difficult and often takes a lifetime to reach a high level.
It is said, “100 days of bare hand, 1,000 days of Spear, 10,000 days of Sword.”
David Silver compiled the above from several of Dr. Yang’s books and DVDs. David Silver has had a lifelong interest in meditation, and began training Gojū Ryu Karate at age 1He studied Taijiquan, Qigong, and Yoga in his 20s, and became certified to teach Qigong by Dr. Yang, Jwing-Ming in 200David works as a writer, producer, and director of instructional martial arts and health books and DVDs. He is the co-writer of the books and DVDs Sunrise Tai Chi, Tai Chi Energy Patterns, and Sunset Tai Chi. David lives in Cape Cod, Mass.
Dr. Yang, Jwing-Ming, is a renowned author and teacher of Chinese martial arts and Qigong. Born in Taiwan, he has trained and taught Taijiquan, Qigong and Chinese martial arts for over forty-five years. He is the author of over thirty books, and was elected by Inside Kung Fu magazine as one of the people who has “made the greatest impact on martial arts in the past 100 years.” Dr. Yang lives in Northern California.
Taiji Sword and Its Applications
Since Taijiquan has developed for more than a thousand years, various styles have been created. There are many Taiji sword sequences in existence. All of these sequences have grown out of the same Taiji theoretical roots.
Power Training for Tai Chi Sword
According to Chinese martial Qigong, the power is ﬁrst generated from the mind. From the mind, the Qi is led to the physical body to manifest it as power. Therefore, we can see that the Qi is the energy, while the physical body is like the machine. A detailed explanation of Qigong can be found in the YMAA book The Essence of Shaolin White Crane.
The Sword Structure
The sword consists of two parts: the blade and the hilt or handle. Both edges of the narrow-blade sword are sharp; the handle and sword body are always straight. The hand guard is always flat and perpendicular to the blade, rather than circular or oval. Usually, the sword is one continuous piece of metal, and the hand guard and handle are slipped onto the butt end (the tang) and held in place with a knot-shaped nut or with a pin or rivet.
Swords are the bread-and-butter of Spiral Knights, but to utilize them to their greatest potential, one must study them in great detail. Specializing as a Swordmaster is very fun due to the fact that you can easily deal vast amounts of damage. In most fights, swords are often the fastest way of getting rid of single enemies or small groups. Using swords the right way will allow you to face nearly any danger in the game.
A good Swordmaster should put evasion as his top priority during battle; remember, you can always land another hit later! You could also let your friends finish a monster by themselves. Health is important, especially when going up against a great amount of enemies. Defense always comes first, except in a few specific situations (such as killing healing enemies such as the Gremlin Menders).
When facing a huge mob of enemies, a good attack pattern would be to:
Wait for enemy to come in range -> Attack once -> Shield and retreat -> Repeat
You can avoid having to attack before charging your weapon by using this pattern:
Shield -> Hold attack key -> Un-shield.
Slow two-hit swords have a wide swing; so, before attacking try to position and angle yourself to hit as many enemies as possible. This is sometimes easier with auto-targeting turned off (so you can aim between monsters rather than at one in particular), so make sure you bind the toggle to a convenient key.
Cutters, Spurs, Flourishes and Thorn Blades make you move a lot while attacking, which can be both a blessing or a curse. This allows you to dodge hits while attacking, but in some cases can put you in danger or make you run into spikes. Autotargeting is quite useful while using them (especially for Flourishes/Snarble Barbs), as it makes it easier to follow enemies with consecutive attacks, but can make it difficult to target small enemies (such as Silkwings) that are nearby larger ones.
Generally, swords have either Normal or split Normal and other damage. This prevents swordsmen from taking as much advantage of damage types as gunners can, but the bonuses are still quite significant. The only exception are the Flourishes and Thorn Blades which deal pure Piercing damage which allows them to greatly outdamage other swords while fighting enemies vulnerable to Piercing.
Still, it is a good idea to carry three swords with different damage types and alternate for different enemies.
The slow swords – the Divine Avenger, Gran Faust, Sudaruska, Triglav, and Warmaster Rocket Hammer – have combos with two strikes (with the exception of the Warmaster Rocket Hammer). These swords have wide attacks with long range and good knockback, but they are very slow. Attack speed increases, be it from UVs or gear, will help greatly when using these swords. The second strike of these swords have a moment afterwards when the player is vulnerable and cannot shield. Attack speed increases can shorten this time, however there are some situations where it will always be better to use the first strike only and shield cancel.
The Divine Avenger is a split Normal/Elemental Sword. Its charge is very useful for a Swordsmaster because it gives them a powerful ranged attack, great for crowds of enemies or distant Gun Puppies, but the swing itself deals even more damage (nearly doubled 2nd hit damage). While the Warmaster Rocket Hammer outclasses it in DPS, the Divine Avenger is much better at keeping the user safe.
Is able to hit otherwise inaccessible enemies/blocks with the charge attack
Projectile blades from charge attack make some enemies dodge or shield
It is possible to activate several switches at once with the charge attack
Gran Faust is a Normal/Shadow damage version of the Divine Avenger. It is currently the only weapon that is capable of dealing Curse with its second strike or charge. Unlike the Divine Avenger, then Gran Faust’s charge shoots one large blade instead of three smaller ones. This makes it more useful on single enemies or tightly clumped groups, but far less effective at crowd control. The charge also has an approximately 1/chance of cursing the user. While the curse time (usually 40 seconds) and amount of weapons cursed can be reduced with curse-resistant gear, the charge attack is often not worth using unless you are confident that the curse will wear off before needing to attack again. Keep in mind that the curse will only affect two weapons, if you have extra weapon slots you can continue attacking using the non-cursed weapons.
Stage combat. The timeless art of not dying.
The skillful display of martial prowess requires training, practice and choreography. Moving the story forward requires a good script and a director that understands the need for good pacing and realizes that a fight scene must not just introduce action, but also says something about the characters. And to not die requires good stage combat sword. And actors who like each other.
These have absolutely nothing to do with stage combat.
What about balance? We talked about how important balance is for a battle-ready sword. Is it important in a stage combat weapon? The answer is long and rather technical:
Some people cling to the belief that they need a perfectly balanced weapon for stage combat, but those are the same people who think that cars should get a new paint job before taking part in a demolition derby. Safety and durability are the two most important factors in a stage combat weapon. Everything else is just lipstick and eyeliner.
Oh, and now, for the unveiling. I will reveal how the crop circles were made in England. The answer was discovered by Beaker, of Muppet fame. And I will let him tell you in his own words”
I have been toying with the idea of buying a katana for when the zombies come out and 201and the end of the world as we know it. J/K
Well I really want a nice sword to hang and why not take a few swings at stuff, Anyone have recomendations for budget katanas? If I’m going to get one, why not a good useful one that can actually do a good job?
If you’re new to astronomy, you might have already flipped through magazines like
Sky & Telescope marveling at the pictures of celestial objects. Surely you want to see these objects in real life. But what if you don’t have a telescope or binoculars for astronomy?
Testing Binoculars for Stargazing
Of course, the best way to see if a binocular model suits you is to give it a good tryout at night. Do stars focus down to pinpoints better in one pair than another? Your local optical shop, however, may not be thrilled with the idea of letting you play with lots of equipment overnight on a loaner basis.
Luckily there are ways to tell right in the shop how well binoculars will likely perform. These tests really work (I’ve done them for years), and if you learn them well you’ll gain a reputation as an expert on binocular optics. Ready?
Inspecting the front lenses. The darker the reflections in the lenses look, the better their optical coatings. This means more light is transmitted through the glass to your eyes, and less light is scattered around adding haze to the view.
How to Test Your Binoculars
Now, while still looking in the big front lenses, tilt the binoculars around a bit and look for more reflections deeper inside. They should all be colored, not white. A white reflection is the sign of a glass surface that has no coating at all.
You might think you could tell the quality of the coatings from designations such as “coated,” “multicoated,” or “fully multicoated,” but in practice these terms can be next to meaningless. The proof is in the looking, so look. Note: Don’t be taken in by models hyping “ruby-coated lenses.”
Now turn the binoculars around and repeat the procedure, looking for colored versus white reflections in the eye lenses.
Next, face well-lit wall and hold the binoculars nearly at arm’s length, with the eyepieces pointed at you. You’ll see the exit pupils (disks of light) floating just behind the eyepieces, as was illustrated above. You might think that exit pupils would always be perfectly round, but this isn’t so. The ones on cheaper binoculars often have a slightly “squared off” look, as if someone shaved off, or dimmed, two or four edges. This is a sign of manufacturer’s corner-cutting that will slightly dim all the images you see.
Pick the units with round exit pupils; this tells you that quality prisms were used and that you’re getting all the light you should. (You can also check the specification sheet: the best prisms are made from BAK-glass, while others use BK-glass.) Since they’re hidden inside, the prisms are one of the first things manufacturers skimp on when trying to lower the price. Seeing “shaded” or “squared off” exit pupils is a sign of lesser-quality or undersized prisms.
Next, if you wear glasses for astigmatism, make sure you can see the entire field of view with your glasses on. If you’re merely near-sighted or far-sighted, you can observe with your glasses off and just refocus as needed. If you’re astigmatic, sorry — you’ll have to use the binoculars with your glasses on, so this test will be important.
Next: see if you can detect whether the binoculars’ two barrels are out of optical alignment, or “collimation.” Experienced users can pick up on this relatively quickly, but beginners have a harder time of it, because your eye and brain automatically try to compensate for any misalignment. The best way I can describe this is that out-of-alignment binoculars will make you feel slightly “seasick.” In really bad cases you may have trouble merging the two images into one, at least right away. Or maybe you’ll have a mild sense of relief when you stop looking through them. Reject such units.
Testing Under the Stars
If and when you do get a chance to test binoculars for astronomy under the stars, take it. A star at night is the most stringent indicator of optical quality. You may even find a daytime “artificial star” such as sunlight glinting off a distant insulator on a power pole or a distant piece of shiny metal.
Center it in the field of view. Looking with one eye at a time, can you bring it to a perfect point focus? Or, as you turn the knob, do tiny rays start growing in one direction before they have shrunk all the way in the direction at right angles? This astigmatism is especially bothersome when viewing stars. If you have astrimatism in your eyes, be sure to wear your glasses when doing this test.
If, as you turn the focus, little rays start growing out of the star in all directions before the rest of the star comes down to focus, you’re looking at spherical aberration. This problem too may be in your own eye, even if you’re wearing your glasses. If it is, all binoculars with a given size exit pupil will show the same problem. To reduce it, choose higher-power binoculars; these yield a smaller exit pupil for a given aperture. Unfortunately, your eye’s spherical aberration cannot be corrected with glasses.
Now move the star from the center of the field to the edge. It will go out of focus unless you have a perfectly flat field and freedom from various other aberrations. As a rule of thumb, no degradation should be visible until the star is at least halfway to the edge of the field.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Practice Swords wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Practice Swords
- №1 — Set of 2 47″ Kendo Shinai Bamboo Practice Sword Katana
- №2 — CS92BKHNHZ-BRK Training Hand & A Half Sword
- №3 — Set of 2 Black Padded Sparring Bokken Foam Sword Practice Blade