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Best Transparency Markers 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]

Last Updated December 1, 2018
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Billy JacobsHi there, I’m Billy Jacobs. Here are the best transparency markers for 2018 – based on my own expert opinion, feature sets, prices, and overall popularity.

The reviews are compiled through a mix of expert opinion and real-world testing. Like most products, some outdo others, so use my top three list below to get started on your search for the best transparency markers of 2018.

Best Transparency Markers of 2018

I make the search easier for you, by reviewing the best transparency markers on the market. If you’re reading this, it is very likely that you’re scouting for the best transparency markers.

You can make a choice based on the my list as you shop. I’ve based my selection methodology on customer feedback, the size, functionality, and budget to meet various demands.

Test Results and Ratings

Rank №1 №2 №3
Total 4.8 4.5 4.3
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№1 – EXPO Vis-A-Vis Wet-Erase Overhead Transparency Markers

EXPO Vis-A-Vis Wet-Erase Overhead Transparency Markers

Ideal for overhead projectors, transparencies, and all other types of films, acetates, and laminated calendars.
Won’t fade or bubble under intense lamp heat.
Specially formulated ink provides clear, bright images.
Everything is OK.

Why did this transparency markers win the first place?

I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days.












№2 – Expo Vis-A-Vis Wet-Erase Overhead Transparency Markers

Expo Vis-A-Vis Wet-Erase Overhead Transparency Markers

Reliable! I really like this!
A little bit heavy.
It is not for the small jobs.

Why did this transparency markers come in second place?

The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money.












№3 – EXPO Vis-A-Vis Wet-Erase Overhead Transparency Markers

EXPO Vis-A-Vis Wet-Erase Overhead Transparency Markers

Ideal for overhead projectors, transparencies, and all other types of films, acetates, and laminated calendars.
Won’t fade or bubble under intense lamp heat.
Specially formulated ink provides clear, bright images.
The price is clearly unaffordable for the most buyers..
The front panel is moving back and forth.

Why did this transparency markers take third place?

I hope that the good reputation of the manufacturer will guarantee a long-term work. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built.












Transparency Markers Buyer’s Guide

If you keep the before points in mind, you can easily go out to the market and buy transparency markers, right? No!

Tip Material

There are two types of felt-tip markers. One is made of a spongy loosely packed fiber and the other is made of a hard, densely packed fiber.

Tip material affects feedback, tip longevity, and line precision. Whiteboard markers typically have “felt” tips made from materials such as nylon or polyester. Two types of felt-tip markers exist. One is a densely packed fiber housed in a plastic or metal funnel. These tips hold their shape longer and create consistent lines. However, users may experience more feedback with them because they feel harder and produce more friction on a whiteboard surface. The other kind of felt tip is made of a spongy, loosely packed fiber, which lends the tip flexibility. While easier to write with, these fray over time.

Tip Shape & Size

Chisel or brush tips yield more varied strokes while rounded bullet tips produce less varied strokes.

Chisel or brush tips yield more varied strokes while rounded bullet tips produce less varied strokes. The latter, however, are easier to control. Tip size is also important. Thin tips allow for more detail but those who write with them may experience more feedback. In contrast, broad tips create less detail but are smoother to write with.

Drying Out

How you store your markers can affect how juicy they stay.

The woe of many a whiteboard marker user is that whiteboard markers dry out quickly. To maximize their longevity, store whiteboard markers horizontally. Long-term vertical positioning with the tip pointing upwards causes the pigment to precipitate out of the solution, leaving the tip with reduced color. If this happens to you, don’t panic; there are ways to revive dead markers. One way is to temporarily store the marker with the tip facing downwards so that the ink saturates the tip. You can also use pliers to completely remove the tip and turn it to the “juicier” side.

Most whiteboard markers are alcohol-based, so they will emit some kind of odor.

For those sensitive to strong odors or in closed areas with lots of people, use low-odor markers. Some of the most low-odor markers include the Zebra Mackee Double-Sided Wet Erase Markers and the Staedtler Lumocolor. Most whiteboard markers are alcohol-based, so they will emit some kind of odor. We suggest keeping your working area well-ventilated.


Another consideration when selecting whiteboard markers is pigmentation.

Another consideration when selecting whiteboard markers is pigmentation. If you often give presentations or teach classes, you know how important it is for people to be able to see what you write on the board. On the other hand, if intense colors are hard on your eyes, you may prefer lighter shades.

Colorful Classroom

Whiteboard markers are a classroom necessity because relying solely on paper handouts is neither sustainable nor economical. Additionally, some students find whiteboard markers more engaging and tangible as personal study tools. To make the learning process interesting and efficient, the whiteboard marker recommendations below are long-lasting, highly visible, and convenient to use.

Top Choice: Expo Click Retractable Whiteboard Marker – Dry Erase, Colors

Version: 0.92

Free vector illustration software Inkscape is compatible with SVG format, but can also important EPS, PostScript, JPG, PNG, BMP or TIP images and export PNG or other vector-based formats. 

Inkscape provides several tools and various shapes, paths, text, markers, clones, transparency effects (alpha), transformations, gradients, patterns and groups. 

Inkscape also supports Creative Commons metadata, node editing, layers, complex path operations, bitmap tracing, path-based texts, circumfluent object text, direct XML editing and much more.

User experience

Simply put, if you can do it in Adobe Illustrator, chances are you can do it in Inkscape, and that’s pretty incredible for a piece of free vector software. If nothing else, give it a try to see how you find it; if it’s not for you, you haven’t lost a thing.

You can manipulate image shapes, fill them with gradients, apply filters, group them with other layers, convert them to paths, distort them and so much more.  There’s not enough space to list everything that Inkscape can do, which just attests to how powerful it is.

Latest updates

The latest version of Inkscape supports mesh gradients, offers a checkerboard background that makes it easier to see transparencies, and features improved spray and measure tools. For a full list of all updates, new features and bug fixes, see the official release notes.

PSPro vs PS4

By completing these missions, and regularly talking to your teammates, you’ll earn their loyalty. It isn’t as binary as in previous Mass Effect games, but it strengthens their resolve and commitment to the Andromeda initiative, and that’s what you want, right?

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The serial number or production number. 

Now you know which model you have and from what year it is, this is already important information to determine the approximate value your Rolex. Next you should find out if your Rolex is still all original or if it has non original parts / later service parts. It takes years of practice to learn to compare vintage Rolex in detail but despite this I will try to help you in the right direction.

As your reference number tells you which model you have you now start comparing your Rolex with one from my „reference” list below. Your focus should be on the typo used on the dial, the exact form of the Rolex coronet and if present, the bezel typography. Search for similarities but again, this needs to be done precisely. For your information, the indication „Swiss” or T SWISS T or  SWISS T<2at o’clock indicated there was use of luminous on the dial. The first „swiss” only was in use before 196and means the dial is containing radium luminous. This changed in the 196to Tritium with the T SWISS T or SWISS T<2markings.

Here are some general advises for checking out the originality of your vintage Rolex:

So below the reference number is 653for Rolex Submariner Big Crown produced between 1956-1959, then below you see I.56, which means it left production at first quarter 195and all the way down you see a stamp that has shortly been used around 1956, the 1which stands for the (high) quality of steel that has been used.

Now you have an idea of which Rolex model you have, from what period it’s made and if it’s still in original condition (or at least parts of it ) you might want to check out the value by searching the sales results of the mayor auction houses which specialize in offering vintage Rolex. Every specialized auction house has it’s own database of achieved results. Find below a direct link to each of these databases where you can enter the info of your vintage Rolex to find out what a average sales price is in the market since last years.


Every angle is still sharp, the side from the bezel, no marks on the crown or side of the case and also not on chamfer of the bevel.

A unused bracelet is still stiff, you need to bend the links. When removing the band with the push pins before polishing, it will always leave trace marks on the case. That is why the lugs are often sealed with tape before band removal. A clear sign of a service polish are the drilled lug holes, or better yet the sharpness of the lug hole edges. Because once polished, these lug holes will lose the original sharp edges.

Following is a GMT Ref 654also unpolished and unused. Hard to believe that these almost 60 year old Rolex have been tucked away and now see the daylight. In a scale of impossible to find these unused miracles are listing top position. Collectors grail.

Another part to check if a watch has been polished are the chamfers, the bevelled edges between the matte part and the middle case. Tool watches like the Daytona or dresswatches like the DateJust and Daydate did not have chamfers. You will only find them on the Submariner, Milgaus, GMT-Master and Explorer II. Perhaps because of this rarity and value, bevels are particularly loved by vintage collectors. A bevel was merely for esthetical purposes. Each model had its own bevel, the bevel on the GMT-Master was a bit smaller than the Submariner one. This has to do with the fact that the Submariner model was thicker than the GMT-Master and the Submariner winding crown larger.

Another indicator if a watch has been polished or not, is by looking at the fine lines on a watch. If these are not straight, the polishing has been done by hand. Unpolished watches only have a manufacture polish, meaning the case has a satin polish that was done at the Rolex factory before all parts were assembled.Every place where wear and tear could happen is still unused, the crowns, the case back, the lugs, the sides, bracelet, crystal. If you compare the case with the band, you will often see a difference in finish because the band is easier to polish than the case. The lugs are especially difficult to handle, so this is an area that requires extra attention with your magnifier. While attempting to make the case matte again, there will always be a 1mm spot against the edge, impossible for a polishing machine to reach. In fact, you could only do a proper polishing job by taking the whole watch apart.

Speedball Complete Calligraphy Kit

While our two kit recommendations have the best overall combination of tools for the price, you’ll get better tools and materials that may make learning calligraphy easier by putting together your own starter kit. Our individual picks for nibs, holders, inks, paper, and a calligraphy brush pen are also great upgrades to the Speedball kits once you get into the hobby.

If you want a nib that’s slightly easier to use for beginners, we recommend the Tachikawa G. It’s a little more flexible than the nibs in the Speedball kit, which makes it easier to write with. This nib was the favorite of all our testers (beginners and pros), who found that it produced the smoothest flow of ink onto the paper. It fits into most of the holders in the Speedball kit, as well as our upgrade holder.

While we like the india inks that come in the Speedball kit, we think most beginners will prefer the slightly more viscous consistency of a sumi ink. Moon

Palace Sumi Ink was the best one we tried. Our testers found they were able to achieve more consistently smooth lines with this ink, and of the five inks we tested, it dried to the richest black color. The Moon Palace ink also comes highly recommended from our experts.

For practicing even lettering, we recommend the Rhodia dotPad. Among the four papers we tried, its smooth texture was the easiest to write on, even with scratchier nibs. The dot grid is less distracting than the lined grid on other papers, and the perforated pages are easy to rip away as you practice.

What you need to get started with calligraphy

If you simply want to letter holiday envelopes or wedding invitations and aren’t necessarily ready to pick up a dip pen, you may be happier with a brush marker or a cartridge-filled pen. For this guide, we didn’t focus on these options, since most of our experts recommended dip pens. But we do have one recommendation for a good brush pen, and we plan to test more for a future update. These pens would be great ways to practice your beautiful writing before moving on to a pen dipped in ink.

If you’re looking for resources to learn calligraphy, check out the suggestions in our calligraphy resources section.

How we picked and tested

We tested a range of tools and materials with pro Han Cao (center) from the calligraphy house Paperfinger. Photo: Kyle Fitzgerald

We tested each holder to see how easy it was to grip and to work with, and we tried each nib to see how much ink it allowed to flow onto the paper. Photo: Kyle Fitzgerald

As a beginner myself, I turned to experts to learn everything there was to know about calligraphy pens and how to assemble a great beginner calligrapher’s kit. While we initially considered testing only nibs and holders, we quickly realized that it wouldn’t be useful to recommend the cake without the icing, so we decided to test papers, inks, and prepackaged kits, as well.

Nibs come in two styles: chiseled (top) and pointed (bottom). Modern calligraphy generally relies on pointed nibs. Photo: Michael Hession

We tested each nib to see the thickest and thinnest possible lines that each could produce. The thin lines show how fine each tip is; differences in width between the thickest and thinnest lines show the flexibility of each nib. Photo: Kyle Fitzgerald

The most important quality of a great nib is how stiff it is, said Alaïa Giglio, proprietor of Clay & Ink. When you’re writing, applying pressure to the nib starts the ink flow. Pointed nibs have two prongs that taper together to form the point of the pen. When you put only light pressure on the nib, the tines barely spread, producing thin lines; when you apply more pressure, the tines spread, creating thicker, heavier lines. If the nib is too stiff, you can have difficulty pressing down sufficiently to get any ink flow. But the tines of a very flexible nib spread with little pressure, which can prompt ink to flow too quickly and cause ink pooling. That’s why a nib of medium flexibility works better for the novice.

Applying pressure on a straight nib causes the two prongs that form the tip to separate, allowing the nib to draw wider lines. The more flexible the nib, the wider the tines separate. Photo: Michael Hession

A grip or ergonomic shaping in the handle of the holder can make writing easier, and a cap will keep a nib from scratching or smearing ink when you’re not using the pen. We didn’t find many holders that came with grips or caps, but we ended up preferring those that did.

We tried a variety of sumi and india inks. Sumi ink (pictured) tends to have the consistency of heavy cream, while india ink is a bit thinner, although not as thin as some inks. Photo: Kyle Fitzgerald

While we focused on finding the best pen and nib, we also tested inks and papers. Although the best ink is a matter of personal preference, certain inks will make writing more pleasant for a beginner. Essentially, you want an ink that’s not too watery—which may cause it to run all over cheap practice paper—but not so viscous that you have to water it down. Beginners should start with ink they can use as is, right out of the jar or bottle. The ink should have an even and consistent flow from the nib, and it shouldn’t spread—an effect called feathering—on the paper (although whether it does also depends on the type of paper you’re using). The best inks for beginners dry to a dark, rich color and ideally should be waterproof, or at least not smudge excessively when dampened.

India ink and sumi ink are two of the most popular types among calligraphers, and they’re what we recommend for beginners. Sumi inks have a thicker, satiny texture and dry to a matte finish. They’re also susceptible to smudging, even after they’re dry, should you get water on them. India inks are a bit runnier (but not watery) and dry to a shinier finish. Some (but not all) india inks are waterproof, so they shouldn’t smudge once dried. We still prefer sumi inks overall because of their smooth texture and consistent lettering.

We tested a variety of papers, including those with a grid (pictured) or dots as guides for achieving even lettering. Photo: Kyle Fitzgerald

The competition

The Brause Blue Pumpkin (Brause 361) was our third-favorite nib, as our advanced-beginner testers found it easy to use to make varied lines.

Testers complained that the Brause EF 6was too small to fit into regular-size universal holders (it does fit into our holder pick, though), and it felt as if it could easily break if we pressed too hard.

The Hunt Imperial (Hunt 101) was way too scratchy on all of the papers we tested.


Although we didn’t formally test oblique holders, we did try the Speedball Oblique Pen Nib Holder, which came in our tested kits. This style of holder differs from straight holders in that it places the nib off to the left of the pen shaft and tilts the nib to a 45-degree angle relative to the shaft. The holder looks strange and counterintuitive, but I felt that it helped me slow down my lettering and keep that classic calligraphy slant a bit more consistent. Since the nib was already angled in the holder, I found it easier to write slanted letters, with less arm or paper contortion.

The General Pencil Cork Grip Pen Nib Holder got dirty from ink way too easily.

The Manuscript Glossy was also a good holder, but not better than our main picks.

Speedball Super Black India Ink was the only india ink we tried, and it’s the ink included in our calligraphy-kit pick. In our tests this ink was less fun to write with than our sumi picks, but it was the most colorfast when we applied water to it.

The water-based Higgins Eternal Permanent Black Ink had a thinner consistency than the sumi and india inks we tried, rendering it runny and inconsistent to write with.

The Zig Cartoonist Black Ink we tried bled tremendously and felt poor to write with.

We liked HP Premium Choice Laserjet Paper, a good choice if you want individual sheets. This printer paper is smooth and easy to write on, but it doesn’t offer the added convenience of guidelines or ease of tracing, as our main picks do.

Strathmore 300 Series Drawing Paper isn’t great for calligraphy. All of our testers agreed this paper was far too scratchy.

Brush pens

Although the Faber-Castell Pitt Artists Pen is a nice, easy-to-hold size, our testers felt that the tip was too soft and difficult to write with next to others we tried.

If you want a pair of pens that have finer points with a shorter brush, the Tombow Fudenosuke pen set is excellent for that. One pen has a soft tip and the other has a hard tip. These pens do require you to exert quite a bit of pressure to get good stroke variation, but they produce relatively nice letters overall. We recommend these for a more advanced letterer.

The Tombow Advanced Lettering Set is a good alternative if you want the option of trying out a few different markers, including the Fudenosuke pens (above) and the Tombow Mono Twin marker, in addition to the dual-ends. Our testers, however, didn’t like any of the other markers substantially more than the Tombow dual-ends on their own.

The ink of the Pentel Arts Pocket Brush Pen bled a lot when we tried it, and our testers found it hard for writing letters. It may be good for more stroke-based writing styles, though, like Chinese, Japanese, or Korean character lettering.

The Sakura Pigma Professional Brush pens, which come in a set of three, have floppy tips that our testers found unintuitive to write with.

We thought the Copic Gasenfude was nice for a pen with a soft tip, and it was good for creating large sweeping letters, but the ink was a bit runny, and it didn’t offer a better writing experience than our main pick.


Alaïa Giglio, owner of Clay and Ink calligraphy studio, interview

Lindsey Bugbee, calligraphy teacher and blogger at The Postman’s Knock, interview

Rodger Mayeda, bespoke pen maker and proprietor of Rodger’s Pen Box, interview

Lindsey Bugbee, The Beginner’s Guide to Modern Calligraphy, The Postman’s Knock, October 7, 2016

Use a shock pump to adjust air pressure

On air sprung suspension (which is the vast majority of suspension these days), how firm the spring is is dictated by air pressure. Air pressure in an air chamber. If you need a harder or softer spring you adjust the pressure in this chamber with a shock pump. >>> Improve the performance of your Fox CTD fork

Setting your sag

What is sag? Sag is how much your bike settles into its suspension when you get on your bike and take your feet off the ground.

Suspension is designed to work best with between 25%-33% sag (AKA a quarter to a third). For example, on a 100mm travel bike you want to aim to have 25mm-33mm of sagged travel when you sit on your bike. >>> RockShox Pike: ways to a perfect set-up

Rear shock sag

For example, on a rear shock with a 50mm stroke, running 12.5mm of sag, means it has 25% sag.

Use your shock pump to inflate or deflate the suspension until you are getting 25% sagged travel (25% is the best starting point in our experience as most bikes are designed around having 25% sag).

Setting your compression damping

Not all suspension forks or rear shocks have adjustable compression damping so this section may not be applicable to you.

Compression damping affects how your suspension compresses.

Not enough compression damping will result in suspension that bobs around and dives through its travel on descents and/or under braking.

Preset compression damping modes

Descend mode means minimal compression damping, resulting in a supple, plush ride but one that can be wallowy with excessive bobbing.

Trail mode is the general all-rounder setting. Firm enough to avoid excess bobbing but still able to absorb decent hits.

Aren’t digi stamps just a posh name for Clip Art

Although elements of digi stamps are similar to Clip Art, there is a big difference. Most digi stamps have been designed by crafters, for crafters – so they understand what stampers like! Digi stamps are designed to be fun to colour or to create stunning effects. There are even renowned artists (such as children’s book illustrator Mo Manning) who design them.

The second point of difference is that digi stamps are higher quality to give you sharper outlines and to allow you to resize without a loss in resolution (print quality). Sometimes you’ll find the file name of a digi stamp ends in.png which means the background is ‘transparent’. Look out for these if you want to print images onto coloured or patterned paper. This image below was printed onto textured card and coloured with brush markers for a watercoloured effect.

Now get creative!

You can be just as inventive with digi stamps as you can with rubber stamps, you don’t have to stick to white card or paper. Try printing onto patterned paper for paper piecing projects and discover the stylish effects you can get by printing digis onto printable acetate and vellum (set your printer to the fast or draft setting for this to prevent ink overload). You can even layer images to create gorgeous scenes!

How An Electric Guitar Works

While styles and models may vary, electric guitars operate on the same general principles. The pickup mounted on the electric guitar’s body functions as a magnetic field. When a metal string is plucked and vibrates, it generates a current. That current is transmitted by the pickup through a preamp circuit with tone controls to the guitar cable, and in turn to the amplifier. The amplifier boosts the signal and modifies it with various tone controls and effects, depending on the amplifier’s design and capabilities. The signal is then output to a speaker, which converts it to sound waves. The type of pickup(s), tone controls, strings, playing techniques, and other factors built into the guitar’s design all influence the signal that is sent to the amplifier. In short, each component of the guitar affects how the guitar sounds.

Pickups and Electronics

Aside from the body style, the pickups and electronics have the greatest effect on the way a guitar sounds.

The most basic, original pickup design is a single-coil pickup. It’s composed of a single magnet with fine wire wrapped around it, creating a magnetic field that captures the strings’ vibrations converting them into an electronic signal. Single-coil pickups tend to be bright and crisp sounding. The tone they produce cuts through dense band sounds well, but they are also prone to generating hum and are subject to magnetic interference. Many great artists play guitars equipped with single-coil pickups. Eric Clapton, Stevie Ray Vaughan, John Mayer, Merle Travis and many others are famous for their use of single-coil tone.

Active Pickups and Electronics

Some guitars are equipped with active pickups that require batteries as an energy source and incorporate a preamp for sound-shaping. Active electronics may also include filters and equalization circuits for added sound control. Guitars with active electronics generally have a higher output than magnetic pickups and produce cleaner, clearer sound. Most guitar pickups are passive.

Pickup Switching and Other Controls

Most electric guitars feature multiple pickups. Some will have two or three single-coils. Some will have two or three humbuckers. Many offer a combination of single-coil and humbucker pickups. This combination offers the player a wide range of tonal options. Pickup configurations are often abbreviated by referring to single-coils with an “S” and humbuckers with an “H.” The placement of each pickup is indicated from the neck down towards the bridge. Thus an SSH configuration has single-coils at the neck and middle positions and a humbucker at the bridge.

The placement of pickups on the guitar’s body has a significant influence on the tone they generate. Pickups located near the bridge sample the strings where they have the least overall motion. The result is accentuated treble sounds or “bite.” Pickups located nearer the center of the strings—closer to the neck of the guitar—produce a tone characterized by more midrange and bass sounds.

Guitars with multiple pickups have controls allowing the player to access each pickup individually as well as combinations of two or more pickups simultaneously. These controls may be rotary knobs, blade selectors, or toggle switches that allow the guitarist to quickly access various pickup combinations during performance.

In addition to pickup selection, most guitars will have controls for volume and tone. Volume controls simply regulate the strength of the output signal. Depending on the amplifier, this can control the tone as well as the volume. Most tone knobs control high frequencies and many guitars have separate tone controls for each pickup. This can vary a guitar’s sound between soft, warm, and mellow to a very bright, raw, distorted sound.

Other switching options found on select guitars can control phasing between pickups for unique effects, eliminate one coil of a humbucker, or toggle the output on and off.

Some newer guitars have digital technology built in to allow a user to access a variety of sounds, including acoustic, 12-string, and resonator guitar tones; violins, piano, and many other sounds traditional electric guitars can’t produce. Other options include emulating alternate tunings without actually adjusting the tension on the strings.

Scale Length

Scale length refers to the length of the string that vibrates, and is measured from nut to bridge.

A longer scale length usually offers a tighter feel in string tension, with a brighter shimmer and well-defined low end. A shorter scale length offers less tension, which facilitates easier string bending. It also can make it easier to play for smaller hands. A shorter scale offers a generally warmer tone.

Most Fender guitars (and others of similar design) use a 25.inch scale length. Most Gibson guitars (and others of similar design) use 24.7inch scale length.

Additionally, most PRS guitars use a 2inch scale length. This design is intended to capture a blend of the warmer tones and ease of play of a short scale length, as well as the brighter tone and tighter playability of a longer scale length.

Neck Construction

The neck’s profile and width affects the guitar’s playability and the player’s comfort when fretting. While most necks are either “C”- or “U”-shaped, the width and depth of the neck in relation to the player’s hand is an important consideration. Players with smaller hands should seek out narrower, shallower necks while those with larger hands will most likely find beefier neck profiles more comfortable.


Since a guitar’s sound is primarily determined by the interaction of the strings vibrating and the magnets in the pickup, you might wonder why wood makes a difference. In fact, the wood has a significant effect on the way a guitar sounds. The resonance from the wood determines how long the strings vibrate and the shape of their motion. Wood also allows the pickup itself to move. This combination makes wood an important factor in the overall tone of the guitar.

Mahogany is a very dense, strong wood used in all parts of guitar manufacture except fretboards and bridges, which require harder wood. A mahogany neck and back are often found on short-scale guitars with maple tops. Another common combination is an all-mahogany body and neck (excluding the fretboard). Because mahogany is not very hard, it emphasizes the midrange and bass frequencies for a mellower guitar tone. Mahogany is a very resonant wood which enhances a guitar’s sustain. It is generally a uniform rich brown color.

Squier Classic Vibe Telecaster Thinline Electric Guitar

Maple is the most common wood used to make guitar necks. It is very hard and dense, and often has attractively detailed grain patterns referred to as figuring. Maple also has a very bright overall tone. Due to it’s figuring and its tonal characteristics maple is often used for a veneer or top laminate on more expensive solid body guitars. It is also used as a top wood in some archtop guitars, where it is usually laminated. Its hardness brings out the trebles in a guitar’s sound. It is also often used for the fretboard where it adds definition to the sound.

Rosewood is the most common wood used for electric guitar fretboards. It is very dense and hard and can be quite beautiful, ranging in color from almost black to variegated brown and blond. Rosewood is occasionally used in electric guitar bodies, but this makes the guitar quite heavy.

Ebony is a very hard, dense wood that is used primarily on fretboards of more expensive guitars. It has a silky feel and is usually almost entirely black.

Ash is a common body material in solid body guitars. It is harder than mahogany and very resonant. This gives the guitar ringing sustain and bright tone with a well-defined mid-range. A light colored wood with attractive grain figuring, it is often given a transparent finish. Swamp ash is a particularly appealing, detailed wood used on higher-end guitars.

Alder has tonal characteristics similar to ash, but is less costly and is not as highly figured. It is one of the most common body woods on solid body electric guitars. It is usually light tan in color, although it’s often covered with an opaque finish.

Fender Special Edition Deluxe Ash Telecaster

Agathis is similar to alder in appearance and tonal characteristics, though not quite as resonant. It is commonly found on newer, more affordable guitars.

Nato is also known as Eastern mahogany, and offers a warm resonance. Nato is very strong, and is most often used in the necks of less expensive electric guitars due to it’s cost effectiveness.

Electric Guitar Hardware

Guitars feature many different styles of hardware which have different uses. There is usually a direct relationship between a guitar’s cost and the quality of its hardware. Better hardware can make a difference in a guitar’s tuning stability and versatility. As you can imagine, this is an area where many improvements and upgrades can bring a host of benefits to the user. The most significant hardware components are tuning machines, bridges and tailpieces.

Kluson 3-per-Side Tuning Machines

Some tuning systems lock down at both the nut and bridge. This provides excellent tuning stability and keeps the strings from slipping or stretching too much while using a tremolo system. (For more about tremolo systems, see Bridges and Tailpieces below.)

Grover-Trophy 10Rotomatics Tuning Keys – 3-Per-Side Chrome


Keep in mind that with the waypoint system, you can travel pretty much from one side of the world to the other but the prices for traveling increase the further you are from the waypoint. It is free to use waypoints within a city once you are inside the city.

Dodge is the key

GWcombat involves a lot of movement and a big part of the that movement is dodging out of mobs attacks. If you have played active dodge based MMOs like TERA or TSW then this concept isn’t all that foreign. There are two ways to dodge in GW– pressing ‘V’ or double tap a movement key. Some people do not like using double tap as that can lead to unwanted movement in delicate situations like jumping puzzles. You can disable double tap in options.

You cannot dodge infinitely, there is a dodge bar on top of your HP globe. This bar will allow you to dodge twice consecutively before you have to wait for it to recharge.

Understand what autotarget and promote skill target means

Autotarget allow you to fire off a skill and hit a nearby enemy without having to target that enemy first. This is great when you are just soloing in a sparsely populated area as that save’s you from having to target a mob first. However, this option isn’t that hot in dungeons or when soloing in a mob dense area.

If you are going to have autotarget on, you might as well turn on Promote Skill Target, this option will turn the mobs you attacked (without targeting) with autotarget into targets (i.e. as if you clicked and targeted them).

Stop autoattacking on target change is a great option to have as that can help you to prevent aggroing random mobs when you have autoattack on.

Debuffs ==> Conditions

Differences from other MMOs. With the exception of some mechanics and some Professions, Guild Wars is doing many things differently from the traditional MMORPG. If we take World of Warcraft as the most basic form of an MMORPG, here are the following differences.





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Final Word

First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.

Most important, have fun and choose your Transparency Markers wisely! Good luck!

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