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Best Webbing 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated December 1, 2018
Best Webbing of 2018
Welcome to my website! If you plan to buy webbing and looking for some recommendations, you have come to the right place. I have a variety of material used in the construction of webbing including metal, plastic, and glass.
I must say I am quite a fan of webbing, so when the question “What are the best webbing available on the market?” came to my mind, I excitedly started gathering information together with personal experience to write this article in the hope that it may help you find the suitable webbing. However, after giving you the TOP list, I will also give you some of the benefits you stand to gains for using it.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this webbing win the first place?
I also liked the delivery service that was fast and quick to react. It was delivered on the third day. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack.
Why did this webbing come in second place?
I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed.
Why did this webbing take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
Webbing Buyer’s Guide
Line Made With “Low Stretch” Webbing
Here are some important things to consider when shopping for a beginner slackline:
Line width. Pick a line that’s 2″ in width. Originally, slacklines only came in a 1″ width, but now are also offered at 2″. One inch lines are for advanced slackliners who are highlining and longlining. Two inch lines not only provide a wider balance platform, but also feature a ratchet system that’s easier to use.
Rigidity. Find a slackline with a rigid “low stretch” webbing (webbing is another name for the slackline material). The more rigid the line, the closer to the ground it can be set up. Less rigid lines sag more in the middle as you walk along, and need to be set higher. You’ll fall alot when you’re first learning… being closer to the ground is important! More rigid lines are also easier to balance on because they have less stretch and sway.
Ratchet System. Find a slackline that features a single lever-and-lock ratchet. This type of ratchet is similar to (but not the same) as the ratchet systems found at a local hardware store, and are good for quickly and easily tightening the line. They also feature a quick release when taking down the line.
Accessories. Look for a slackline kit that comes with a topline, or “helpline”, and a set of treeguards. The topline is setup above the slackline, providing a handhold while you get your balance. The treeguards are important for protecting the trees the slackline will be setup between, as well as protecting your line from getting worn through by rough bark.
Beginner Slackline Recommendations
Very little separates the following options. All are very good slacklines for beginners, and are of similar quality and materials. The biggest differences are between price and accessories.
Gibbon Classic TreePro Slackline Set
Setting it up for Rapid Deployment
Each member should have 2feet of webbing tied with a water knot to create a continuous loop (see photo 2). Twenty-four feet of webbing, tied in to a loop, will give us the proper amount needed to perform most tasks associated with this tool. One-inch nylon tubular webbing has an approximate breaking strength of 4000 pounds and when tied in a loop, the knotted strength is approximately 3000 pounds.
Webbing should be inspected with your regular tools but at least monthly and after each use, and it can be cleaned with a mild soap and water. In essence, give the webbing the same care you give your ropes. It should also be noted that webbing does not respond as well as rope to shock loading, and should be protected from fiction heat when used over an edge. Webbing is not that expensive in the large scheme of things and my recommendation would be, use it one time for anything and replace it. Someone’s life may depend on it.
The purpose of carrying webbing is not to use it like your utility rope, to haul or drag tools or hose; it is used for life saving reasons. We are not talking about weaving a person in to a basket, we’re talking about a member that is in a hazardous environment: he’s down and needs rescue. NOW! This is not the “touchy feely” part of the job, this is “old school” firefighting. We are not throwing caution to the wind; we are getting our brother or sister the hell outta there. NOW! Anyhow, the politically correct version of what I am saying is: Spinal immobilization may not be possible due to the need for immediate removal of the member from an imminently dangerous situation. That’s what we’re using this for: Saving lives.
You can also roll it on to itself and keep it in an examination glove (see photo 4) with a small piece sticking out and keep it in your pocket too.
Firefighter Rescue Techniques
To take a 24-foot piece of webbing and use it as a harness to pick someone up is not a difficult task at all. Try this standing up; without turnout gear first, until you get the hang of it, then try this with turnouts, then with a member lying on the ground and last, have a member lying on the ground, full turnout gear and SCBA. It will take a little practice, but as you will see, if you need this maneuver you will be in the game making an impact immediately, not waiting for equipment while your brother or sister is lying in wait.
The seat harness can be used accordingly, lets say a person is conscious and you can not wait for a real seat harness, and it’s not a long haul. But the truth is, if a person slips or goes unconscious and flips over, they are coming out of the harness, you hope. The last thing you want is anyone dangling from the end of anything! And you know the cameras are going to catch that one.
The Hasty Harness can be used in addition to the Seat Harness for a more secure harness. Following the above steps for the Seat Harness, continue with steps below.
As you can see in photo 11D, when done properly even a limp human will not slip out of the harness.
By the time you finish this up, the members you notified when you gave the mayday upon finding the downed firefighter, will be in place for further orders and ready to execute the next step of your plan. I know you have one: It’s the way you’re trained to think. For every action, there is a consequence. You thought it through the consequence, and know how the plan is going to play out. The brother’s that are there to assist will follow a plan, no matter who is explaining it, if it’s a plan, the brother’s will follow it.
The Chocker Hitch
Another way to grab someone is the chocker hitch, which is a quick means of dragging a downed member to safety.
A Chocker Hitch is OK, but if the person being pulled raises their arms it can cause problems and possibly slip off. Practice with this, its easy and has some practical use. After you apply the chocker hitch you can drag the person to safety, this is not a lifting hitch.
Did I mention you should have a carabiner with you? Clip a carabiner to your gear in an easily accessible spot. The webbing and carabiner are a team, like the axe and the halligan. Sure, you can use them separately, but as a team they perform quite well. As with the webbing, do not get a cheesy carabiner. Make sure it’s rated for what you want, life support. Whether you get locking or non-locking is up to you.
My preference is: for high angle, confined space, etc., use the locking carabiner and for the stuff I am talking about now, I use a non-locking carabiner, I feel I don’t have the time to fiddle around with the lock in a “grab and go” situation.
In photo 1another variation is to clip the carabiner to the SCBA wire assembly harness and the clip the webbing into the carabiner. Sometimes it’s just easier to slap a carabiner on to the SCBA assembly than wrapping the webbing around the member’s chest. If your doing this, make sure the SCBA is either converted to a harness or the assembly is tight to the victim.
The one that started it all. Made from our best-selling PolyPro material, these straps are machine stitched to quality black leather ends (EB logo stamped in gold print) for absolute maximum strength and longevity, with a black Delrin adjustable buckle and connector to further enhance durability and good looks. Available in black, navy, white, rainbow, burgundy, red, olive, gray, brown, forest green and purple.
How to choose a Beginner Long Line.
If you are new or a beginner at slacklining and are thinking about getting into long line walking one of your options would be to get the gibbon’s surf line, it is their longest slackline at 9Feet (30m) and 2in. wide. This line is much easier to set up and cheaper than a pulley slackline rig.
Additionally, if you can not walk this line you are not going to be able to walk a longer and thinner line so why not start with this cheap low maintenance easy to set up line.
Another good thing about the surf line is it can also be used as a fun bouncy trickline or for line surfing. After you have mastered walking across the surf line, gotten a few basic tricks down and have learned some rigging skills from setting up a ratchet rig you will be more comfortable moving onto a more advanced 1in. wide line that is set up with a pulley system.
Another good lower cost beginner option would be the gibbon flow line. The Gibbon flow line is shorter than the surf line (60ft long) but it is a 1-inch wide line, this will help get you prepared for longer lines because longlining is almost done exclusively in inch wide lines once you get to lines over 100Ft.
The flow line is a double ratchet system so that means it takes a little longer to set up then a single ratchet system.
Longlines Over 300 feet or 100 meters
After you have masted a 300 ft lines you can progress to even longer lines but this is where rigging systems start to get very expensive and even more complicated to set up.
The components for these pulley systems have to be high quality to ensure safety because of the extream amount of tensions that is put on the slackline webbing.
Here are some videos that will give you some examples of the type of stuff you will have to learn to set up lines over 300 ft (100M) long.
Are you thinking getting into long line walking may be too expensive or complicated to set up but still want to get into slacklining? Check out one of my other begginer guides to slacklining some other styles of slacklining are a bit easier to get started with.
Look for webbing
These weblike brown spots on the watermelon mean that bees touched the pollinating parts of the flower many times. The more pollination, the sweeter the fruit is. “Boy” and “Girl” watermelons
Many people do not know that farmers differentiate watermelons by gender. For example, ’boys’ are bigger, have an elongated shape, and a watery taste. The ’girls’ have a rounded shape and are very sweet.
Multiple Storage Locations
Lateral compression straps help with volume control and let the pack keep its shape while still providing plenty of space. The MOLLE straps all around also mean you can attach a lot of other gear to the outside of the pack, so you can take what you need with you all the time. There are loops and D-rings on the straps for additional storage, as well, making this pack an excellent choice even if you have a lot of gear you want to be able to access quickly.
Great for Comm Guys
An important thing to consider when buying an assault back is whether or not you will be responsible for carrying a radio. This is especially important for Radio Operators. From my own experience, most assault packs aren’t optimized for carrying comm gear. Especially the Harris PRC 119, Foxtrots and other Satellite radios.
If you’re primary MOS or job is a radio operator then this assault pack is a no brainer. After much testing and research we came across the Kelty Tactical Raven 2500 Backpack. This assault pack was designed for Comm guys that go on missions and spend a lot of time in the field.
One of the great features of this pack is the removable radio holder, which comes with the pack. It allows you to easily insert and secure your comm gear inside your pack. One major problem I faced in the past is my radio would bounce around while on missions. With the Kelty Tactical Raven 2500, you won’t have this issue. Also when you purchase this pack you get extra pouches to carry batteries.
There is also a clear KDU window on the top of the pack. This is great for when you need to change your frequency and access all the radio’s controls.
Removable Radio Holder
It’s important to note that if you are using a slimmer radio like the PRC-117G then you will need to take extra precautions to ensure your radio stays snug in the removable radio holder. One solution is to zip tie the metal bars of the radio into the internal frame.
Another great feature of this pack is that it has a single vertical compression strap that can accommodate pretty much any antenna you plan on using with your radio.
This pack also has MOLLE webbing on the front and sides. This is great if you need to attach extra pouches to carry batteries, CYZ-10, or other important gear needed for your mission.
If you’re a Comm guy who needs a tactical pack look no further. The Kelty Tactical Raven 2500 Backpack is the best solution you will ever find. While it’s a little more expensive than traditional assault packs it’s well worth the price. You and your back can thank me later.
Important Note: If you know for a fact that you won’t have to carry one of these radios or any comm gear at all then you won’t need this pack. If you know your unit or squad will be issued AN/PRC 148’s or AN/PRC 152’s then you also won’t need this setup.
I hope this buyer guide helps you find the best tactical assault pack for your needs.
I will be going through each of these sections and highlight what products are best for different types of lines, as well as link you to other Slack Science articles that are relevant to the topic.
I will be referencing the Custom Slackline Kit Builder, which is a fantastic tool for building yourself a slackline kit. With this builder, you can be sure that all the components you need come with the kit you build. We have set it up so all the correct connectors are automatically added to your cart for you, depending on what you choose from the builder. It’s a nice tool that will aide you in purchasing your slackline kit. In addition to this, all these components you purchase through the Custom Slackline Kit Builder will carry on with you if you decide you want to go longer as you can just tack on a few more components to add another 300 feet to the possible lengths, or another 1,000 pounds of total tension to the system. Webbing The webbing is the line you will actually be walking on. The type you get depends on a lot of factors, including personal preference. I have written a pretty in-depth guide on the subject in this Slack Science Article: Slack Science – All About Slackline Webbing. I will outline my personal favorites for different types of lines below. Longlines Under 300 feet long If you are looking for a line that has a very smooth and controllable walk without much movement, both Spider Silk MKII and Mantra MKIII are great lines for this. They both have quite low stretch, so they will be easy to rig, and are both extremely stable to walk on at these lengths. If you are looking for a line with a little bit more pep and play, then both Aero and Type 1MKII are great options. Both of these lines have a bit higher stretch and will give you more to play with. If you are especially into big movements and dynamic tricks on your longer lines, then Type 1MKII is the right choice for you. Longlines Over 300 feet long This is where longlines start to get very interesting. For the most part, I am using both Mantra MKIII and Spider Silk MKII for these lengths, but I will sometimes switch over to Type 1MKII. The biggest issue with a line of this size is the time it takes to rig. If you use a webbing with lower stretch, it will take less work to get it tight. This translates to more time on the line. But, at the same time, if you want a powerful longline that is capable of extremely dynamic movements, using Type 1MKII will be the way to go. Tricklines At the moment, we carry two trickline specific webbings: RAGEline and PowrLine. Both of these lines have different characteristics and are good for different types of tricklining. The RAGEline is good for fast paced tricks and long combos when precision and speed are of importance. The lower stretch of the RAGEline gives it this faster speed while maintaining supreme power for big tricks as well. The PowrLine has been built solely for power. If you are into tricks that require big air and long air time, the PowrLine is the way to go. It’s 100% nylon, so it has quite a bit more stretch. This added stretch coupled with the tight weave structure provide an excellent platform for big aerial tricks. Highlines The two lines in the shop that I most recommend for pretty much any size highline are Aero and Type 1MKII. Both of these have fantastic features that make them ideal for highlining: TruRound Edges, LineSkin (optional), and good stretch characteristics. Webbing Anchors The Webbing Anchors are how you attach your webbing to your anchor and tensioning system. This is what will be holding tension on the line. A good webbing anchor will hold a high percentage of the breaking strength of your line, is easy to install your webbing into, and will not your harm your webbing when it’s under tension. I will explain a few of the benefits of our Webbing Anchors below.
For any line under 800 feet in length, the absolute best option for both the static and tensioning side is the Alpine WebLock 3.0. It holds a very high percentage of the breaking strength of all our Slackline Webbing, is extremely easy to use, and does zero damage to the line under tension. A great solution indeed. Another option that is a bit cheaper, is our ⅝” and ½” Shackle Line-Locker Kit. These are a bit more cumbersome to use a they require positioning of a line-sleeve, but they are super strong and work in just about any situation. The one thing to consider with this type of webbing anchor is that you will start to damage your line at higher tensions. So, if you plan on rigging lines longer than 200 feet, or plan on going to very high tensions (above kN), then you should consider getting the Alpine WebLock 3.0 instead. This will be a better solution in the long run and will make your rigging experience much more enjoyable. Anchor Slings Anchor slings are the things you wrap around the trees or clip to the bolts on a highline. Because they wrap around trees and bolts, they are inevitably going to see a lot of wear and tear. For this reason, they need to be extremely rugged and strong. The slings we carry are called Spansets. They are built with a protective cover to protect them from abrasion and are built with big safety margins. These are the best slings you can get for slacklining.
We carry two colors of Spansets: Green and Purple. The color indicates strength. For most of our purposes, the Purple Spansets are more than adequate. However, if you plan on setting longlines longer than 800 feet or super tight tricklines, the Green Spansets are the way to go. Another thing to consider when picking your Spansets is what length to get. The length is measured from one end to the other when they are laid out flat, as described in this Slack Science Article: Slack Science – All About Spansets. In order to determine what length you require for your slackline setup, you will need to know the approximate size of your trees. A good size that works for most trees in most areas is feet. Just remember, you can always make your slings shorter, but you can never make them longer. So, getting a size that is slightly bigger than you need won’t be so bad. The Tensioning System
Webbing is a ubiquitous material; used in a wide range of applications from military equipment to the fabrication of furniture, and yet few of us consider how or why it is made. The innovation of webbing is simple, but effective. By using a single strand fibre and densely weaving it, a much stronger and more durable strapping is created; much lighter than alternatives such as leather.
At Trakke, we use a polyester webbing designed for military applications. Polyester is light and strong, while being abrasion resistant with a relatively low rate of water absorption that makes it ideal for outdoor use. Like all of our materials, we searched high and low to find a manufacturer capable of making the webbing in the UK, and our search ended when we found a company, nestled in the heart of the Derbyshire countryside who have operated from the same Victorian factory for the last 150 years.
Today, the mill uses modernised machinery and runs on mains electricity. Employing eighty people and running over one hundred and thirty looms twenty four hours a day allows the business to produce over a million metres of webbing a week! Indeed they produce enough webbing each year to stretch to the moon and back!
Cones to Beams
Raw materials such as polyester fibre arrive at the mill wound on small cones, holding about 1,000 metres of material. To be used on the looms it must be wound onto larger spools, called ‘beams’. This process is automated. Cones are loaded onto racks and threaded through guides onto the beam itself. The beam then rotates, transferring the polyester from the cone.
Finished webbing must then be fed through a heat-setting or ‘sizing’ machine. As the webbing passes through the machine it is dipped in a series of solutions and hot ovens that treat the webbing to stiffen it and give it a more durable finish.
When the sport first developed one-inch webbing was standard, but most slacklining is now done on wider two-inch webbing which doesn’t feel as scary. Each has benefits, however.
One-inch lines are usually nylon and manufactured in the form of a flattened tube. This makes the webbing feel smooth and flexible underfoot, and it’s extremely strong because the “strength per inch” is much greater. It’s also easier to tie knots attaching to tensioning systems with this flexible webbing. For those reasons, plus the additional challenge of walking on a thinner line, many experienced slackliners prefer to use one-inch webbing. However, it’s often difficult to maintain sufficient tension in a nylon line so things can get quite wobbly up high, and the webbing may bottom out (hit the ground) when used down low. You can buy polyester one-inch lines that aren’t as stretchy, but they’re only suitable for low-risk slacklining.
Two-inch slacklines aren’t tubular and most aren’t made from nylon. The webbing is usually a nylon/polyester blend which is relatively stiff (and not as intimidating) but able to provide good bounce; it’s ideal for both tricks and lowlining without bottoming out. Slacklines made for different purposes will have different blends of nylon and polyester, with some extremely stable lines for highlining and some with so much bounce they can be used in competitive tricklining. One end of a two-inch line will have a loop that can be used with a fixed anchor.
Once you have a line, however, how do you attach it to trees or other anchors? You use a tensioning system.
Slackline Tensioning Systems
Each type of webbing lends itself to a different type of tensioning system that attaches to trees or other support structures.
One-inch webbing generally calls for what’s known as a “primitive” setup, sometimes known as an “Ellington.” It utilizes carabiners (metal loops that have a locking mechanism, commonly used in climbing) and rings to hold the end of the webbing and create a pulley system. It’s fairly simple, but it’s difficult to maintain the right amount of tension with this approach; primitive is a good name for it.
Slackline ratchets are used with two-inch webbing and they’re easy to use because they’re dedicated equipment that you just purchase and set up. The webbing is threaded through the unit and you crank down the ratchet until the tension is right. The process takes just minutes. When you’re done with your session, you just pull a release trigger. The only issue is making sure that the line stays straight as you feed it into the ratchet so it doesn’t snag and rip.
There’s a specialized type of tensioning system designed for advanced longlining and highlining and it can cost as much as several thousand dollars. As you’d guess, these anchors aren’t available in slackline kits, so we won’t go into detail here.
Burton Backpack Tinder Pack
The BURTON Tinder Pack is made of 20% polyurethane and 80% of cotton. Some of us are more outgoing and vibrant than others. If you prefer having colorful additions to your wardrobe, then this would be a great buy. You will be able to get it in so many other colors, and co-ordinate your outfits as you may wish. The fabric of the Burton backpack is 600D polyester.
I have used backpack on several occasions and really love how comfortable it feels. Of course, I have a sense of fashion and don’t get thrilled by less fashionable items, especially backpacks. Perhaps my sense of fashion is what makes me love this backpack even more appealing to me.
Burton Backpack Prospect Pack
Being organized makes life a whole lot easier. The BURTON Prospect Pack is for anyone who wants to save time on always looking for things, and getting frustrated. The backpack has an internal organization system in its main compartment, which is very sizeable. It also comes with a key clip and a slip pocket that happens to be secured with Velcro.
If you have been using those inferior and cheap options available on the market and you want to try out something better and more appealing, then I suggest you check this backpack out!
Burton Backpack Kilo Pack
If you are looking for a backpack that is well accessorized, then look no further. It comes with external pockets that are well zippered and four for easy carrying of all those valuables you need to carry around. This bag I chose for you comes in a color known as Eclipse Crinkle. If you want a great looking storage bag that can fit all your gear and put away your components securely, you should really check this out.
Burton Kilo Backpack
I have to say that this was also one of my favorite backpacks. This is because it has front webbing for carrying skates. Not many backpacks that have front webbing are necessarily of good quality. It is also very versatile as well. This is the best type of backpack that you can use for school, work, or even when you are planning to travel. If you also want a convenient means of carrying your skateboard or jacket, then this backpack is definitely the right choice. The front has a pair of straps that are secure as well.
Factors you Should Consider Before Buying a Burton Backpack:
Size: Ensure that the Back pack is the right size for you to store all your valuables. This is important because in case you want to carry your gear, or laptop and other sizeable necessities, the backpack should fit all of them.
Support: The Straps on your back pack should give you enough support, to allow you to carry your components without straining. Barton backpacks need to be adequately supported if at all they’re to offer the best performance.
Style: Make sure that the Back pack has a look that will fit your lifestyle, or pick ones that will allow you to co-ordinate your wardrobe. Of course, you don’t just pick a Burton backpack without considering how it’ll affect your sense of fashion and style, do you? For that reason, pick something fashionable.
Durability: Get a Backpack that will last and give you service for a substantial duration to avoid you wasting your money on replacements.
The most important of this is the car seat!
It’s so important, in fact, that hospitals pay special attention to your car seat and won’t let you leave if you don’t have one that meets all of their standards. So why is it that 80% of car seats are installed incorrectly and another 40% of people are using car seats that are too big for their child?
Simply put – we see the wrong things, we think they are right, so we repeat them.
Our car seat buying guide will help you to better understand how to choose a car seat, which car seat the best for your family, and how long you can use a car seat for. To do this, we looked at the pros and cons of each car seat, the customer reviews, and the specs.
Of course, you also have to ensure that you install the car seat properly, or all of the research in the world isn’t going to keep your child safe. You don’t have to spend a ton of money. You don’t have to travel far and wide. You don’t have to get something that doesn’t fit your car or buy a new car just so you can keep your child safe. Instead, you just need to use your head.
Find the Car Seat Model That Works for You and Your Baby
When your baby is born, he or she might need something special. Some babies are born really small. Some are born very light. Some have special requirements because of health conditions. While you can’t really wait until your baby is born, you should be proactive in determining if you will have any of these issues. Not all car seat models work for extremely small babies.
Then, you have to think about transitioning. Do you want to have a car seat that lasts for years but you have to transition it or do you want to get a few car seats?
Once your child grows out of the infant seat, most parents will move to a convertible seat. Some people will start with a convertible seat, but there are very few that provide enough support for smaller infants. By your child’s first birthday, a convertible seat is likely what you will have, installed either forward-facing or rear-facing. Some parents prefer to keep their child rear-facing for as long as possible, but it really depends on your car, your seat, and your child.
If your child is younger than a year old and weighs less than twenty pounds, you should keep him or her in rear facing mode. Some of the tougher convertible seats allow you to go up to 50 pounds in the rear facing mode, but you would need to get a special system that accounts for the length of your child’s legs, especially if you plan on taking longer trips. For short trips, they could be fine. However, if you are in an accident and your child’s legs are squished, it could be a huge problem.
Your child will let you know if he or she is uncomfortable. Better yet, you should pay attention to when it looks like you can safely move your child from a rear-facing car seat to a forward facing mode.
Most convertible seats will have a convertible harness system, but the weight limit is higher, meaning that the system is tougher.
All-In-One Car Seats
If you don’t want to keep shopping for new seats every time your child grows (and they grow very quickly), you can get an all-in-one seat. Note that they do save money and they are easier, but they aren’t typically as safe and effective at each stage like the individual seats are. Since these seats work with infants starting at pounds going all the way up to 120 pounds, that is too wide of a margin to really support every stage equally.
Another reason many people don’t go for the all-in-on car seats? They are extremely bulky and lack the convenience in the different stages.
Still, they can be a great option for grandparents or people who won’t transport your child all that often.
What machine should you buy? I have no specific recommendations, but here are some things to think about. Consider a used machine if you are just getting started. Many great machines get traded in for the newest technology, which means you can get a good buy on a gently used machine. Some older, all-metal Kenmores and Singers are real workhorses, but be careful. Take fabric samples with you, and test, test, test. Buying from a dealer will get you lessons, training, classes, service, and support; buying from a big box store will give you none of this.
Sergers and Industrial Machines
An industrial sewing machine is a heavy-duty machine. If you are going to be sewing heavy materials, multiple thicknesses of heavy fabrics, or quantities of items, an industrial machine might be a good investment. Industrial machines are powerful and fast, and because they are typically more suited to single tasks than regular machines are, there are many different types. A typical industrial will do 2,000+ stitches per minute compared to 600 to 800 on a home sewing machine. An industrial also has a separate motor, usually 1/to 1/horsepower, and is built into a large table that takes up quite a bit of space. Upholstery “walking foot” machines are very tough, but the range of material is limited to heavy and heavier. A needle feed is a good choice that will handle a wide range of fabrics, from light to heavy.
Finding Fabrics and Notions
Sources: listing of retailers of outdoors fabrics for US, Canada and Europe
Sewing Outdoor Gear: Easy Techniques for Outerwear That Works (Rochelle Harper; Taunton Press, 2001) If you are looking for information on making technically beautiful and functional outdoors clothing, this is the book for you.
Sew and Repair Your Outdoor Gear (Louise Lindgren Sumner; Mountaineers, 1989) This book contains good information and projects, but does not touch on fleece or waterproof-breathable fabrics.
Sew the New Fleece: Technique for Synthetic Fleece and Pile (Rochelle Harper; Taunton, 1997) This wealth of excellent information goes way beyond headbands and mittens.
Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing (David Page Coffin; Taunton, 1993) Although it has nothing to do with outerwear, this book is terrific for helping you perfect your sewing skills.
Adventures with Polarfleece: A Sewing Expedition (Nancy Cornwell; Krause Publications, 1997) More great tips for going a little farther with fleece using unique zippers, fashion ideas, and embellishments.
Sewing Essentials is a great basics book; if you are just getting started, this one is a very good investment.
For products featuring very thick and bulky materials, a heavy duty machine with a thick sewing capacity and powerful feeding mechanism is required. The following machines are recommended for saddles, harnesses, straps, tack repair and various other projects comprising of leather, nylon webbing, biothane, plastics and more:
Techsew 8Post Bed Roller Foot Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 8sews light to medium weight materials such as leather, vinyl, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated products. Designed…
Techsew 830 Post Bed Top and Bottom Roller Feed Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 830 sews light to medium weight materials such as leather, vinyl, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated products. The…
Techsew 830-2-R Post Bed Top and Bottom Roller Feed Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 830-2-R sews light to medium weight materials such as leather, vinyl, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated products. The…
Techsew 860 Post Bed Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 860 sews light to medium weight materials such as leather, vinyl, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated products. Common…
Techsew 8501High Post Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 8501sews light to medium weight materials such as leather, vinyl, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated products….
For repairs of shoes and boot uppers, a cylinder machine with 360 degree multi-directional presser foot is recommended.
Techsew 2900 Cylinder Leather Patcher Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 2900 is the finest in leather patching machines, designed for repairing shoes, boots and purses and sewing patches onto leather….
Techsew 2900L Long Arm Cylinder Leather Patcher Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 2900L is the finest in leather patching machines, designed for repairing shoes, boots and purses and sewing patches onto leather….
Upholstery sewing machines must be able to sew multi-layered materials and provide options for piping, zippers and other specialized applications. The following machines are recommended for automotive, furniture, marine and aviation upholstery:
Techsew 030Top & Bottom Feed Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 030sews light to heavy-weight materials such as leather, vinyl, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated products. Features:…
Techsew 1460 Walking Foot Leather Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 1660 sews light and medium weight materials such as leather, vinyl, upholstery, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated…
Techsew 1660 Walking Foot Leather Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 1660 sews light and medium weight materials such as leather, vinyl, upholstery, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated…
Techsew 20618-2-Needle Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 20618-sews light and medium weight materials such as leather, vinyl, upholstery, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated…
Techsew 106-1Long Arm Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 106-1sews light to heavy-weight materials such as leather, vinyl, upholstery, synthetics, canvas and various coated and laminated…
For heavy duty upholstery requiring the sewing of more than 3/8” thick material as well as large thread sizes:
Techsew 180 Heavy Duty Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 180 long arm walking-foot industrial sewing machine is an extremely heavy-duty machine ideal for work on thick and heavy materials such…
Techsew 5100 Heavy Duty Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine- Fully Loaded Package
The Techsew 5100 leather stitcher is the ultimate sewing machine designed for a wide range of leather work projects. Light range leather work :…
The TechSew 3850 is a powerful industrial sewing machine capable of sewing leather, biothane, plastics, nylon webbing, canvas and more.
FUR AND SHEEPSKIN
Most fur products are sewn with a specialized fur sewing machine. Fur machines features a disc-feeding mechanism which grabs and feeds bulky furs and stitches together pelts and hides. The following machines are recommended for sewing various kinds of fur, sheepskin and hides:
GARMENTS & APPAREL
Sewing garments and apparel such as shirts, pants and general tailoring require a machine that can provide slow or fast sewing speeds for high productivity. The following machines are recommended for garment production and repair:
Techsew 5550 Highspeed Lockstitch Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 5550 is designed for garments and light weight leather items. It is also capable of sewing light to medium-weight materials such as…
Techsew 5550-AU Automatic Highspeed Lockstitch Industrial Sewing Machine
The Techsew 5550-AU is designed for sewing garments and various products made from fabrics and denim. The 5550-AU features a direct drive Servo motor…
Fastpitch or Slowpitch
In stark contrast to the popular opinion of the Internet, you can use both the slowpitch and the fastpitch softball gloves interchangeably provided that you aren’t playing catcher. For a catcher, knowing the distinction is important. For, in slow-pitch softball, the catcher’s main job is to catch soft tosses that are thrown his way by the pitcher. Since the speed of the ball is slow, a slow-pitch catcher could use virtually any glove.
As for a fast pitch catcher, it is imperative that he has a heavily padded mitt since the ball will be coming fast and without a heavily padded mitt, their hands might become sore after a few catchers. Also, in worst case scenario, a hand injury might also occur.
If we have to identify one common area between softball and baseball gloves – although there are many other, the connective web between the fingers and the thumb – aka webbing, would be one.
Webbing normally comes in two types: the closed and open web. Closed webbing gloves are provided with a tighter lacing so they are generally the preference of catchers, fielders, and pitchers. This is because these webbings allow quick snagging of the ball.
Open Webbing gloves are preferred by infielders and outfielders since they have a loose weave which allows the player to see through the mitts and trace the trajectory of higher hits. Also, since throwing the ball to the infield is a priority, open webbing gloves – thanks to their loose webbing, allows just the same.
Open Back or Close Back
That part of the glove which encapsulated your wrist is known as its back. Unlike webbing or pockets, back is a matter of personal preference and has little to do with the position. Talking about open back gloves, there is an opening in their back side which allows an easy and speedy turnaround of the ball and also guarantees hand mobility.
Although the preceding description might imply that open back gloves are the best ones, there is no such generalization. For, although they are being rigid, this same characteristic of their design allow close-back gloves to power hits, closed back gloves are recommended.
After you catch the ball in the webbing, the area where it falls afterward, just above the palm, is known as a pocket. Similar to that of webbing, pockets come in two types: shallow and deeper. Unlike, however, that of webbing, choosing a pocket is dictated by your position and not by your preference.
For an infielder, shallow pockets are recommended since they allow quick transfer of the ball to the plate just before the runner. Thus, shallow pockets are used for quick transfer from the catching to the throwing hand and for fast grabs.
As for the deep pockets, they are generally used for holding onto hard hit fielders and high balls. Thus, if you’re a Captain of your team and want to make sure nobody drops a catch, make sure the pockets of their gloves are in line with their playing position.
Gloves for Outfielders
Since outfielders have to hold onto skiers and hard hit balls, their gloves are longer and larger than others. Their gloves have an open webbing, deep pockets, and are closed back. The open webbing allows better visibility which is essential if you want to hold onto skiers. As for the deep pockets and the closed-back design, they allow better ball holdup and extra support to hold onto hard hits, respectively.
Gloves for Infielders
The main job of the infielder is to throw the ball back to the plate as quickly as possible. Hence, speed and flexibility are two things which are a must-have for any infielder. For the same reason, their gloves are smaller and have shallow pockets.
As for the back design, both open and closed back designs could be used, depending on the playing position. For, if you are a second or first baseman or a shortstop fielder, open webbing is generally being used in this position. As for the third baseman, closed-back designs provide increased support to hold onto hard hits.
Being finger-less, the first base gloves are generally similar – in their outer appearance to the catcher’s mitt. They, however have a relatively well-defined webbing and less padding. Also, they have open webbing and have shallow pockets.
For a catcher, the main purpose is to protect himself from fast, hard, and repetitive pitches. For this purpose, their gloves have a finger-less construction and extra layers of padding. Other characteristics include: fast snaps, small and shallow pockets, and closed webbing.
In contrast to the preceding positions, a fielder’s glove is a matter of his/her performance more than anything else. Still, if you ask us, we recommend closed webbing because of its ability to deprive the batter of seeing the pitcher’s grip. As for their size and pocket depth, both these elements are a matter of the pitchers’ preference and comfort.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Webbing wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of Webbing
- №1 — Strapworks Lightweight Polypropylene Webbing for DIY pet products
- №2 — Strapworks Flat Nylon Webbing for sewing
- №3 — Strapworks Heavyweight Polypropylene Webbing for DIY pet products